"A scene so wild, as rude as this
Yet so sublime in barrenness."
With these famous words, the Highlands and the Islands were made known to the Lowlanders and the Brits. From that day forward tourism has played a vital role in the lives of the people of rural Scotland. That is a good thing because survival is a constant struggle for the hardy people of this land. There is little arable land but the sheep love what the moors have to offer. The sea, although providing a wealth of sustenance, is often not enough to support a family. Thus into play, comes the 'king 'o drinks as I conceive it" - scotch whiskey, described by R.L. Stevenson in his works, 'The Scot Returns from Abroad'. Many people of this isle work the land or sea and work the barley too. It is that remarkable, symbiotic relationship, which took us this morning to Talisker Distillery, the only distillery on Skye.
Talisker and the famed Johnny Walker are owned by a parent company, which by our accounts, must rake in mega bucks each year. We, ourselves, contributed to the coffers.
We were glad we paid the 6 pounds each for a tour. It was distinctive from our first tour at Strathisla: more tourist oriented, not as classy, but yet very interesting. Of course, we sampled (even moi) and we were yet again intrigued by the importance of this industry to the economy of this remarkable country. We will always, back at home, think of the friendly Scottish people when we buy a bottle of single malt. Cheers to the barley!
Our day had donned clear and bright, which led us to think no jackets, perhaps just a light sweater but we have been here long enough to know we must be prepared for any weather. So off we went with jackets, brollies, and an extra sweater. Good thing we did, for today we had no less than 3 seasons in one half day. I finally convinced RP to buy a tweed cap. He thinks it makes him look old but he did listen when I told him that not one of his 40 or more ball caps does anything to enhance his youthful looks. I don't think he beleives me but the lovely woven cap was only 10 pounds and his frugal self bought into the plan. Please send him words of encouragement - ballcap vs jaunty tweed cap. See below for yourselves.
We left Talisker bound for the largest town on Skye, the bustling, quaint village of Portree. It was teeming with tourists like ourselves, but also very laid back and low key. We were lucky to find a table at one of the busy cafes where we enjoyed a steaming bowl of soup and a crusty roll. It was the tastiest, most flavorful tomato soup I have ever had. Who said the food in the UK is bland? We have yet to have a poor or bland meal.
As mentioned earlier, Portree is a quaint, bustling and charming seaside village, somewhat reminiscent of Lunenburg or Pictou, NS. Interesting for me because my Scot ancestors left this country to settle in Pictou, NS some 2 centuries ago.
We were greeted by the most raucous residents of this pretty little town. There were hundreds of these feathered fellows, squawking, flittering and pooping all about.
Along the way on today's adventure, I was determined to experience life in the Highlands, which, to me, means Heilan Coos and fluffy Baas. Keep in mind, we are driving on narrow, sometimes single track roads with no pull offs. RP was a sweetie, initiating hazards whenever commanded. We just missed a photo op of a Highland rush hour complete with sheep crossing the road herded by border collies. How I wish I could have captured the photo of the herd on the road with traffic halted both sides. For safety reasons I had to settle for the herd safely across the road and in the farm compound.
The border collies were amazing. Now I know why Grandpa Evans cherished them so much on his Cowichan farm. Camera ready and flashers alerted we captured rogue sheep roadside and the elusive Heilan Coo. See my Skye wildlife gallery below.
At one point in the afternoon RP suggested photographing some of Skye's rugged beauty and, without prompting, found a pull-off which featured a cascading waterfall, a meandering river and the ever present heather laden moor. He stayed in the car while I battled the more than gale force wind to snap a photo. I am not exaggerating! As the wind buffeted me and camera I was approached by a Pakistani from a village not far from RP's home town in the Punjab asking, "please, please take photo of me and wife?". I willingly agreed and with similar request, dragged hubby from car for photo op. He was reluctant as the wind was strong enough to send his new tweed cap flying into the moors. With cap retrieved, photos were taken and greetings from India were exchanged in the wilds of Scotland, complete with that accent my iPad cannot produce. Small world it is. Note photo below indicates the wind blown character of Skye with hair uncontrolled and clothing plastered to body. I HAVE NEVER BEEN SO WIND BLOWN!!!
Our brief time on Skye has been a welcome relaxing interlude before we take on the big city life of Glasgow. The stay at Sconser Lodge, midway between Broadfoot and Portree, has been rejuvenating. We enjoyed breakfast of smoked haddock and dinner of whole roasted sea bass, more drinks than we should admit to and dessert both nights, which is something we never indulge in when traveling. Sconser Lodge is a converted hunting lodge set seaside and hosted by an accommodating young couple. Not only is it a sleeping abode but it also provides a bar, lounge and dining room. It provided old world ambience with new world comfort, food of the fresh and local variety, hospitality of down home country and relaxation we rarely experience.
Tomorrow we tackle the winding road and will cross the bridge back to civilization heading toward the experience of Glasgow. We have been warned, by those who have experienced the drive, not to expect the best road for many miles into the journey. Whatever it is, the adventure continues.
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