Sunday, September 30, 2012

From Akbar, the Great to St. Rupe

As I posted on Facebook today, 4 years ago RP assumed the title, Akbar, the Great, when we toured India. Today, I bestowed upon him the honour of St. Rupe. After 22 days of driving on the left, innumerable rounders, no dings, no scratches, no flats, a gas tank minus 1/8 gallon and only one bloody, parking ticket we made it safely to the Enterprise car rental return at Heathrow. He is a hero and we are so glad the driving is now left to someone else, driving on the left. BRAVO!

BTW - the closer one gets to London the better the roads are. Today we travelled on I-5 style freeways, the difference being the driver's are more courteous, the truckers stay in the slow lane and the passing lane is exactly that. The best part, no rounders, just on and off ramps, much better engineered than ours. No photos share about this but I must give praise.
We are also patting ourselves on the back for arranging a limo pick up to move us from the car rental 20 miles outside of London to our hotel in the west end theatre district. David, the Mercedes driver, graciously crammed golf clubs and too much luggage into the luxurious, leather seated, oh so comfortable sedan. He then took us on a guided tour of the city. We just sat back, relaxed and took it all in. It took one hour ten and it was oh so loverly! A happy couple, I would say.

We fell in love with London before we got out of the limo. The history, the magnificent architecture, the familiar names, the hoards of people, the sounds, the vibrancy, the eclectic menagerie of a world famous city has captured our hearts. Once out of the limo we were at the Strand Palace, our home for the next 4 days.

Not only that, we have plumbing we understand, hot and cold water on the left and the right, one facet which combines both, a rare ice machine nearby, space to store the clubs and daily towel service. To top it all off we are a mere 3 blocks from Covent Garden as well as within walking distance to the theatres and many famous places. I think the Strand Palace may be an ideal location. Directly opposite is the famed Savoy. It is under total renovation but I snapped a photo of the clock.

Covent Garden, in itself is delightful, but there was an extra bonus for me. My last ancestral visitation on this trip was to #13 King Street, Covent Garden. Great Grandpa John Evans was sent from Berriew, Wales, the small village with farm adjacent, to live with his mother's cousin. His mother died when he was 10 and before he made his next birthday the family home burned to the ground. He was packed off to London for a year in private school in Belgravia, a district, now home to many national embassies. One year later, at age 12, in 1858 he was assigned to become a draper's apprentice, living and working at #13 King Street, Covent Garden. He writes extensively of this in his memoirs.

His home/work building was demolished and rebuilt in 1874 but the buildings on either side remain to this day. Where the drapery was stands a slightly newer building and today houses the business of Oliver Sweeney, a high end men's shoe and clothing shop.


Behind is St. Paul's rectory garden and just down the street, also viewable in Grandpa John's time, is the Garrick Club, a prestigious club founded by David Garrick who also supported Shakespeare in his youth. The paths that cross are somewhat mind boggling. I only know of this because John Evans recorded it while in his 80s during the 1930s and Google filled in the blanks. I marvel at it all, from then to now.

Once the ancestral location was found we let ourselves be immersed in the cacophony of Covent Gardens. Words cannot begin to describe the experience on a fall Sunday afternoon. Noise assaults from every angle, aromas permeate, bargains beckon, crowds are thick, the air is festive and we stood there agog taking it all in, not knowing which way to turn. We saw everything from crazy contortionist to catchy classical.


From line-ups for outdoor Paella to indoor gourmet delights, which, though tempted, we resisted. Just might return for Paella tomorrow.

We opted for traditional pub style beer with humous and wings at the iconic Punch and Judy.


I discovered the best arts/craft market ever and cursed the darned airline weight restrictions for curbing my shopping desires. The crowds were remarkable an and the quality of goods exceptional.

We have been inLondon less than 8 hours and we are hooked. The day was finished with our first and only roast beef carvery complete with Yorkshire pudding.

That was topped off with a wee bottle of bubbly and truffles to celebrate the turning over of keys to Enterprise! YAY!

London, bring it on!
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