Stratford-upon-Avon is everything from tranquil to ticky-tacky, from cultural high brow to recreational fitness, from peacefully quiet to crazy busy (think our inner harbour during Symphony Splash x two! It has been another surprise on adventure of new experiences. In the entrance of our B&B is this beauty. Makes me think of "Ride a cock horse to Banbury cross to see a fine lady upon a white horse". We could give that a try; Banbury Cross is but a few wiles away.
We began the day having a pleasant chat with a couple from Yorkshire during breakfast. We have managed well with the accents but I had to be very alert in this conversation. Stuffed with a full English breakfast, reduced to half size by request, off we went for the tranquil part of the day - 40 minute cruise on the River Avon.
The graceful swans greeted with hopes of being feed. The Canadian geese were more than happy to see someone from home. The river boat captain, a retired bobby entertained us with typical British wit.
We noticed all kinds of activities - rowers, kayakers, motor boating, strolling, dog walking, jogging, reading under the shade of an old oak tree, photo shooting, artists sketching. Yes, very tranquil.
Just when we though "ah, what a peaceful start to the day" we heard familiar chanting and the sounds of "large Tablas", drums used in Hindu festivals. Two days ago we had a made in Indian experience with cows walking down the street in front of the Berriew hotel. Today we met on the river boat loads of Hindu worshippers celebrating the birthday of Lord Ganesh. Ganesh Chaturthi is a 10 day festival of feasting and puja, which culminates in the immersing of a Ganesh idol in a river or the sea. This festival was happening today in Varanasi on the Ganges, Mumbai on the Indian Ocean, Delhi, London on the Thames, Liverpool, Vancouver, Toronto and, of all places right here on Stratford on the Avon. Who would have thought? I just missed the photo of Ganesh sinking as someone stood in front of my camera but did catch the traditional flowers which followed Lord Ganesh into the river. Later on the river bank hundreds of Hindus were feasting on roti and Dahl picnic style. I know you are thinking "what has she been drinking." but here are the photos of proof:). The picts aren't the best but it truly happened.
What an absolutely beautiful place this is. The bard of all bards has left the most incredible legacy. His history is so well preserved. I doubt he would have ever imagined that four centuries later three million people would visit his birthplace. The bridge in this photo was built in the 1400s, before Will, to accommodate the horse and carriage. Other than the Victorians increasing the height of the wall and adding an iron foot crossing in the 1800s nothing has been done to it. Today it handles all the traffic of Stratford. The magnitude of the edifice blows my mind.
We wandered the streets past the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, where countless performances are held daily 24-7, sometimes twice a day.
We took a stroll to the Holy Trinity Church (1200) where W.S. was baptized and buried, opting not to pay 2 pounds to view his burial place near the alter. We also chose to pass on the ticket to view his 5 historical places offered for viewing. As seniors, the concession rate would have been 40 pounds. It seemed a tad steep considering we visited multiple museums in Wales at no cost.
Next we meandered past his daughter's home and the home he purchased once well known as a playwright. At the moment there is an archeological dig happening in the yard.
Would you believe Stratford has its own version of the Las Vegas wedding chapel? It is called Trinity House, just down the block from the home William lived in with his family. During the 5 minutes we were on the street we saw one wedding just completed and one wedding about to happen. Bride's attendant in mauve with hair to match.
Now past lunch time, we found ourselves in the Antiques Arcade and decided on a traditional lunch of corned beef/tomato sandwiches and a spot of tea. Look who poured; look who has pinkie extended; look at the best lemon pie we have ever had. Poor old guy had to come to England to get lemon pie. As many of you know the wife has been on lemon pie strike for years. Those of you who don't know, it is a long story.
Lunch finished we continue to stroll through the town. RP was able to use the public loo discreetly encased with an old brick wall. Ladies need to walk further to the closest car park and then pay 20 pence for admission. You can even pay another 20 pence to find out how much weight the full English breakfasts have packed on. Not telling and hoping the picts don't show.
The closer we got to Shakespeare's birth home (1564-1616) the more touristy it became.
Hoards of people, buskers of all sorts, tourist trap shops and fabulous eateries were all available. First on the list was the fairy jester or ??? Then I just could not pass up on the Stratford version of our Inner Harbour Plaster Man. I got the right royal bow when I put a pound in the hat. Finally a Will Shakespearian orator leading a tour group and posing with Falstaff. The day was bright, sunny, warm and absolutely wonderful.
We picked up some wine and a wee dram of the single malt at the local off licence store and meandered back to Arden Way to rest the weary feet. Dinner, a couple of hours later, was at the trendy ENCORE with the evening finished strolling under a full moon across the Avon and the bridge built in 1400s. Only problem was the footpath built by the Victorians was on the other side, with no warning sides to proceed at own risk. We finally safely crossed to the footpath only to discover we needed to cross no less than 6 rounder crossings all without pedestrian signals. AND we thought the rounders were only a nemesis of drivers. All jesting aside, we had a terrific, relaxing day. Ta Ta! and off to bed we go dreaming of the journey to the car drop off at Heathrow tomorrow.
Above- Swan tribute unveiled by the Queen herself in 1996 to mark the 800th anniversary of Stratford being granted market rights and borough status in 1196 by King Richard I and some bishop. Now that is a loooooong time ago. The people are still coming to market and to worship.
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