From Liverpool To Wales

We left Liverpool bound for Wales about 9:00 this morning and thought to ourselves, we must be getting better at this for there were no rounder errors at all. Next thing we knew we were in a 2.2 mile tunnel going under the Mersey River. That was exactly what Bonnie GPS told us to do. What she neglected to tell us was that once out of the tunnel a toll was due - one pound fifty and we had not a coin to lift the tollgate. We had to ring the help button and wait for the kindly young toll man, one of RP's countrymen, to make change for us. The distance is about 75 miles but it took 2.5 hours as we were traveling country for much of the drive. The pastoral scenery is lovely but the roads, as in Scotland, are narrow and winding with speeds vranging from 20-60 mph and there were considerable single lane construction delays.

Our destination was the seaside village of Harlech, North Wales set in the midst of Snowdonia, the national park of Wales. When I say seaside I really mean seaview. The little town is built on a hillside with the dunes and the beach far below. I would estimate the walk to the shore would be 2-3 miles. The main claims to fame are the majestic ruins of Harlech Castle, Royal St. David's Golf Course and the countless opportunities for outdoor recreation (hiking, camping, rafting, paddling, swimming). Friendly people with a lilting accent add to the ambience. I was called "lovey" four times today.


First we found the golf course, situated along the dunes with a pretty view of the ocean in the distance. The scheduled tee time ranked in priority to all other plans for Harlech.

That left me in the golf course parking lot. Unwilling to drive the single track lanes of the village I chose a hike to find the B&B before exploring the rest of the town. Quite a hike it was - about a 25 minute walk uphill but the charming Maelgywn House was worth it. The stately home was built in 1907 and has been lovingly maintained for more than a hundred years. Our oceanside room overlooks the water, the golf course, Harlech Castle and a pretty garden. This is our first accommodation with a garden. Our room is on the 2nd floor to the left and is equipped with a cozy 4 poster, towel warmer, tea tray, wine glasses, fresh flowers and two comfy chairs positioned at the window to take in the view.

Although it had rained in the morning, the sun out came to warm the air and brighten the sky. A good thing for sure. Had it been raining I may not have been so ecstatic about spending several hours on foot. Once checked in I went off to explore the town, poking into shops, chatting with the keepers, browsing the goods and enjoying a gorgeous day in this idyllic country. On foot it is always necessary to remain alert. The roads are wide enough for one car traveling and 1/2 a car parked but they function with 2 way traffic. Our T. Tundra would never survive but there is a Toyota lot in Harlech. The black truck in the lot wont be long for this world driving on the "S" curve one lane, two way roads. While walking today I sat up on the rock wall several times to avoid being run over.




So Harlech Castle,was built in 1287 by Edward the 1st to assert his sovereignty over the Welsh people. It is one of many garrison castles built by the English in Wales. The castle is in ruins now but accessible if you are hail and hearty. I guess I must be because I walked to the top parapet. I think it was about 35 stairs to reach the entrance to the tower and then 160 to the top. These stairs were narrow and wedged shaped in a dark, cavernous upward spiral, not exactly safe, but the view once ascended was panoramic. I looked for golfing hubby on the course below but needed binoculars to find him. The photo below was taken from the golf course parking lot looking up.

The next photo is taken from the top of the castle looking down to the course. The less than adequate and disappointing clubhouse/pro shop is the white building below the stone tower.

The Golf Report:
From RP's perception, the par 4s were challenging, the greens were undulating and slow, the fairways were narrow, the par 5s were easier than expected, the practice area was very good and his rating is 3rd of the 4 he has played in the UK. The pro shop was hokey. It was locked when we arrived late morning and we had to go in search of the starter. The dining room was not open and the bar available sporadically. It is rated 43rd in the UK and Ireland, a generous rating says hubby. Nevertheless, he enjoyed the experience of links in Wales.



I met him at the car park with wine, aged cheddar, pate, and crackers to enjoy at Maelgywn House. Below is our picture window view of castle with the sea and Mt. Snowdonia behind; life is good.

After sharing the events of the day we strolled through the village, now locked up tight for the evening with only 3 eateries open. We chose the Caribbean Restaurant beside the stately castle; good food, good service, some friendly banter with the owner and we were happy. As we walked back to our room we were treated to an almost Maui sunset minus the palms and warm breezes. There is a chill in the air. After all we now have fall.


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