Friday, October 27, 2017

Pura Vida - Puntarenas


We had the pleasure of another stop in Costa Rica at Puntarenas, north of Golfito, the sleepy village on the edge of the jungle. Puntarenas is the main port on the Pacific side of Costa Rica, much larger than the previous port with more amenities and services. Our first glimpse offered garbage laden, messy beaches. As we drove from the port we noticed large bull dozers and a caterpillar machine working on one of the beach areas. The guide explained that Costa Rica had been hit badly with a recent hurricane. It wiped out roads, flooded villages, damaged homes and destroyed many of the lovely beaches tourists and locals enjoy. We were fortunate that the road to our destination did not suffer extreme damage.


Garbage laden beach at the Port of Puntarenas
Costa Rica is a democratic country. Decades ago in the previous century, after years of military unrest and dictatorship, it was decided to abolish the army. Costa Rica of today has no army and the country has enjoyed a peaceful existence for many years. However, when catastrophic events occur an army would come in handy, according to our guide. The government and municipal resources are stretched in dealing with the hurricane response. Most of the beaches remain cluttered because there are still many rural communities cut off with no electricity, fresh water, food or road access since the hurricane struck about ten days before our departure. The main focus of the government at this time is to provide support to the isolated rural communities.

We felt distressed and saddened on two accounts: first that it seems little in the way of international assistance has come the way of Costa Rica; second that the people of our collective world see fit to throw their trash into the ocean. Much of it has debased the shores this poor, struggling country. The proud, hard working people of Costa Rica now must dispose of the world's trash. It is shameful and disheartening.

Comfortable in an air conditioned coach listening to safety instructions from our guide.
The shore excursion on the agenda was another boat cruise. This one on a river also promised a glimpse of wildlife. Our guide Minor, named for the gentleman who built a railroad in Costa Rica, was enthusiastic, humourous, polite and very safety conscious. The latter characteristic will be learned, we hope by the guides on the sunset cruise the previous day. The destination bus was comfortable, clean and air conditioned, a quality much appreciated as the humidity remained high. Minor, throughout the journey, kept us well informed about various aspects of the culture, the political system and the socio-Economic issues faced by this developing nation. Along the way to the river destination Minor pointed out interesting features of the countryside and chatted about the people who live on the edges of the jungle.
A Fence Tree
Many properties are divided by the fence tree. I don't know the botanical name of the tree but it grows profusely in Costa Rica. Any cut branch can be planted in the ground to form a new tree. Since the climate is conducive to rapid plant growth new branches are regularly pruned and immediately replanted to form a fence.


A typical farm house with bananas growing nearby

The homes are very small and usually one level
The Eco Mangrove River Cruise was a highlight for the Travel Time Pals. It was well organized with good attention given to safety aspects. The reception facility was pristine with the cleanest wash-rooms we've every experienced in a park situation.

Outdoor washing station at the cruise reception center
Staff quickly organized the passengers and handled the boarding of the boats efficiently.
Eco Mangrove River Cruiser
We were well covered with sun screen and insect repellent. Both were not needed as the boat and the mangrove trees provided plenty of shade. The earlier wind and rain storms provided a reprieve from mosquitoes. Once the rains end the standing water will be the perfect breeding ground but we will be long gone. I was annoyed by a single fly.


Ready to search for wildlife
Minor was well informed about life on the river and assured us he would do his best to find creatures lurking in the waters, resting on the banks or nestled in the trees. Most of the wildlife in the area is well camouflaged. We were fortunate that guide and boat captain had precise vision and knew what to look for. Camouflage in the name of the game in this eco system.
A mangrove river estuary
The river water was low on this day as the ocean tide was ebbing. It is an estuary impacted by the ebb and flow of the ocean. The colour of the water is dark because the mangrove roots grow into the water.

Mangrove roots
The roots of the mangrove tree provide a habitat of many creatures in the eco system. Our guide spotted a baby alligator resting in the sun on a root. This little guy is still small enough to be prey to larger birds. Fortunately for him, most of the birds we saw were too small to tangle with his scaly skin and sharp teeth.
Alligator, about 5 months old
The river constantly breaks off the roots of the trees but the old wood seldom causes the water to dam up. Termites, huge colonies of them, work tirelessly to consume the old wood. No one would want to encounter a termite nest the size of the one we saw on the river. There were countless nests throughout the mangrove forest.
The dark mass is a termite nest
Minor was keen to point out a variety of tropical birds, butterflies, crabs, a few alligators and even a raccoon peeking out from high above, well sheltered in a broken tree.

Blue Heron, Raccoon, 8-10 year old alligator
The relaxing and interesting excursion on the river ended much to soon. On the return journey our guide continued an informative dialogue about his country. His favourite saying throughout the day was Pura Vida, which means 'good life' or 'all is well'. He had such a positive attitude and extreme pride in his beautiful country. Costa Rica is in good hands with residents like Minor who honour nature and strive to protect the beauty of the land.


Razor wire was a common sight in Central America
We had a brief stop at souvenir market where we were treated to steel drum entertainment, fruit juice, beer or coffee, a sample of fresh fruit and a some time to purchase souvenirs. Back at the cruise ship terminal more entertainment was provided on the dock.


Shuttle buses at the pier, Dancers and Drummers
That evening, as our ship sailed on calm waters, we discussed the positive, unique experience of the day and decided life definitely is PURA VIDA!
An oil paintng at the reception center









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