Varanasi - Day 3

Last night we ate dinner again at the rooftop restaurant. Although we have asked many about other places to eat this one is always recommended first. It would seem our other choices are road side stands and hole in the alley eateries. Lots of last night - quite annoying to us but the locals pay no attention. Varanasi is a truly unique and remarkable city, one of contrasts, [modern & very old, religious & secular, beautiful & ugly, people of every religion and from many countries]. The sights we see continue to entertain, amuse and put us in awe. This morning after meeting our guide we caught the 'running of the bulls Varanasi style' in the street on the way to our car - 2 bulls very annoyed with each other. We then got to view a bullfight Varnasi style right in the crowded street beside the alley to our hotel. Exciting way to start the morning. We were driven to the outskirts of the city to a place called Sarnath. It is where Buddha preached his first sermon in the 6th century BC. We found it to be a tranquil oasis away from the city bustle. We really got a feeling of the antiquity of the area. There are several monuments, a temple and an amazing musuem. As you enter the museum you are greeted by a 2300 year old carved sandstone monument of 4 lions and a 24 spoked wheel - the lion symbol of India appears on all money and official documents, the spoked wheel centers the flag. Damon now understands the meaning of the Indian flag which he has tatooed on his chest. Our guide then took us to a glass bead manufacturing center[the one Catherine recommended]. As today was Sunday we couldn't see the beads being made - most are made in village homes but some are done on sight. Sunday didn't stop the business from selling to us. We all had a wonderful shopping experience buying souvenirs. Next stop was another silk weaving cooperative, also Muslim operated. This time there was little precious and we each made a purchase. As we left this establishment we encountered a monkey with a handgun. Yikes! It was tame, the gun was fake and the owner wanted money, of course, for a picture. I wanted to pay Rs20 [50 cents] but guess who said 'no'. After returning to our hotel we walked through street leading to the main ghat. It was busy but not as congested as it has been on other days. Sunday is a day of rest for some. We found a vegetarian restaurant for a mid-afternoon snack and then braved a bicycle rickshaw ride. It was fun but very short because our drivers were prohibted from getting near the main ghat - not sure why. We payed Rs20 for a 1/2 block ride - worth the picture. Our time in Varanasi is nearing the end so Rupee and Damon decided they needed to atone for their sins and get some good luck. We found a riverside spot that wasn't too filled with garbage and they each stuck a big toe in the Ganga. Again it was worth it for the picture. I'm not sure how many sins are now atoned or how much luck they will get with only a big toe but they couldn't let Ajmare outdo them. Nicole & I opted for the role of photographer. For the last 3 days we have marveled at the transportation in this city. There are very few modern vehicles. Mainly the people use push carts, bicycle rickshaws, some 3 wheelers and motor scooters. We have seen a smattering of buses and large trucks. Most of the cars are tourist designated. It is astounding to see how the bicycles are used. Today one was pulling a wagon loaded with about 8 sacks of potatoes at least 60 pounds each; atop the sacks was a man talking on a cellphone. [see what I mean about contrasts] Bicylces are used to deliver milk in old fashioned cans and gasoline in red metal cans that look like they came from the era of the British. We saw one scrawny man wheeling a bike that was balanced with 2 steel posts, the type used for light standards. He actually managed to weave through the maze of traffic without hitting anyone or anything. For our last night we were fortunate to be able to upgrade to a deluxe room. Each room has a view of the Ganges. Right outside D&N's window is a graceful tree that is home to many monkeys. Monkey watching is on the agenda until we leave. These monkeys then fly to the flat roof top outside our window so we can do the monkey watching from either room. Our deluxe rooms are somewhat nicer than the standards we've used for the last 2 nights. We can actually walk around the bed, there is a refrigerator which works when the electricity is on, 4 towels instead of 2, and some small bottles of bath products. Rupee has had a nap already and said the bed is way more comfortable, not a board like we've endured since arriving. This city is likely the essence of India and we are excited to have had the experience. Nicole & I have decided we must be in Indian mode as we felt comfortable walking up the narrow street this afternoon without the men nearby. Tomorrow we return to Delhi for 2 nights before heading to the Punjab. We actually think it will be nice to get back to a pace that isn't so hectic. Ten days ago when we landed in Delhi we never would have believed we would be saying that there was someplace more chaotic.