Varanasi

We had a great last night in Jaipur. Our driver took us to a nearby restaurant, The Royal Court, and joined us for dinner. Rajasthani entertainment was on the menu too - drumming & dancing. Nicole was cajolled into joining the 2 dancing girls and she did a great job. Damon couldn't resist the beat so he joined in too. It was fabulous entertainment. I'll post a picture later as I left my USB cord in the room. We really enjoyed spending some time with Sateesh, our driver, and we know he enjoyed our company too. It was an early rise to catch a flight to Delhi @ 9:00. We then had our very own private security transfer on the tarmac from one plane to the other when we made our Varanasi connection. Lots of security at the airports - good thing. We were in Varanasi [Benares] by noon. Our guide was waiting to transfer us to the hotel. Now it gets interesting. Since arriving in India we have pretty much done the tourist thing and driven past the real life of India. Now we are immersed. The 45 min. drive from the airport was the craziest yet. There are fewer cars and many more scooters and bicycle rickshaws in this city of 2.5 million. Also the roads are only 2 lanes but that doesn't stop the drivers from making them into 4 lanes. It was a hair raising ride. The closer we got to the hotel the more narrow the streets became. We eventually arrived at our destination but it was nowhere to be seen. That is because we had to go on foot through several very narrow, very smelly, very creepy alleyways. Eventually we arrived at Rashmi Guest House, also known as the 'Palace on the River". Well, in the sense of height I guess it could be called a palace. We walked up way too many steps well above the Ganges just to get to the lobby. Here we were greeted with rose garlands that smell as lovely as the leis in Maui. We signed in the very old fashioned was by hand, not computer. Meanwhile the luggage coolies had carried our 2 heavy suitcases on their heads through the alleys - glad we left 2 bags at the hotel in Delhi. Next our rooms - OMG not quite the Trident Hilton. We were very disappointed to not be assigned the river view rooms we had requested. Oh well, we are in India. The rooms are postage stamp size and the bathroom is worthy of a photograph. As I looked in the bathroom I asked Rupee what room D & N were in. Damon answered 'Right next door, Mom.' Our bathrooms share a wall that has a ventillation screen at the top. I guess we have to schedule Rupee and Damon to do their business at the same time. At least the rooms are clean. Next problem - bank machines. Any that we have found in the last few days have no money. That is not because of the world credit crunch but because of Diwali. I guess a lot of money is spent on this festival. We wandered through very congested streets trying to find someplace that would dispense money. Damon finally was able to withdraw some on his Visa. Off to the ghats we go, each with a large bottle of water as it is 30+ and very muggy. The sights are something to behold and we've only had a peek. We did wander close to the cremation ghat but turned back because our shoes were sinking in the mud. After being pestered by the boatmen and people claiming to be raising money to cremate the homeless we headed back to the hotel. Again many more steps up from the river to the lobby, one floor up to our rooms and 4 floors up to the rooftop restaurant. We had delicious beer and pakorahs for a snack while sitting on the deck observing the river and riverside surroundings - kids flying kites, a cricket game on the river edge, the cricket ball landing in the river, one of the players not hesitating to go in to get it, monkeys cavorting on the rooftops within almost touching distance and parrots squawking in the treetops right at eye level. It is going to be a very interesting 3 days, to say the least. Tomorrow morning we meet our guide at 5:45 for a sunrise boat cruise - sunrise is the time Hindus take a traditional dip in the holy river Ganges. Later in the day we have a city tour. I'm sure we'll learn more about this interesting and very unique place. Right now D & N are on the other computer checking messages and Rupee went back to the room to watch TV, except there is no TV in our hotel. In fact, the air conditioner only comes on after 3:00 when there is electricity. We're so glad you are following our adventures and really appreciate the posted commments. Watch for the photo of D&N learning to dance Rajasthani.