La Antigua - UNESCO Heritage Site

Guatemala is a colourful country which offers lush, wildlife rich jungles, fertile lowlands and temperate highlands back dropped by active volcanoes and placid lakes. The ethnic people descend from the ancient Mayan civilization.

Guatemala's Fire Volcano, one of three active in the vicinity of La Antigua

Our chosen shore excursion was La Antigua, a Spanish colonial town, once the capital of all Central America and originally known as Santo Domingo. It is situated between three active volcanoes 4500 feet above sea level. The air was pleasantly warm, much like a spring day at home. The locals felt it was too cold. When the Central America was divided into several countries the capital of Guatemala became Guatemala City and Santo Domingo was then called La Antigua, the old one.

The ruins of Santo Domingo; earthquake caused 300 years ago

The ruins remain and an upscale hotel is nestled among the shattered walls

The 100 minute bus journey took us from the agricultural lowlands into an area of the highlands situated between two large active volcanoes, the fire and the water volcanoes; a third smaller volcano is in the vicinity as well, which makes the land prone to smoky volcanic activity. Depending on the direction of the wind the volcanic ash will fall on the lowland sugar cane or the highland coffee plantations. The products of both have a distinctive flavor from the ash.

The old and the new parked in a modern garage constructed beneath ancient ruins

Most impressive in La Antigua is the way in which the city preserves the history of the ruins and  incorporates a modern way of life. The Casa de Santo Domingo is a modern, upscale hotel constructed within the ruins. A parking garage has been built underneath the shattered walls; we noticed an ancient horse carriage artifact parked alongside a brand new car. A tunnel leading from the garage to an interior courtyard, reception, restaurant, chapel, rooms is interesting in that along the walls are glass cases tastefully showcasing artifacts from an earlier life.

The cathedral of La Antigua displays damaged for the original devastating earthquake;
the road shows damage from a more recent earthquake

All the city streets are paved with original cobblestones. Streets which suffered recent damage  are repaired by hand labour using pieces of stone from damaged buildings and roads. Considerable effort is made to maintain and preserve the  historic qualities of the town.

Good exercise walking on these roads



Hand labour repairing earthquake damaged street

The people of La Antiqua were friendly, happy and hard working. Many make their living by peddling their wares and driving a hard bargain or crafting colourful clothing, jewelry and accessories.

The tropical fruits were tempting

Permission was given to photograph this beautiful child modelling
 hand crafted, traditional Guatemalan clothing

Traditional weaving on a simple loom; the products were gorgeous

Toddler chasing pigeons in the Town Square

Vegetation in La Antigua was lush, the foliage a verdant green, the flowers exquisite in their tropical beauty. Amidst the ancient rock walls colour spills from every nook and cranny. There are 600 varieties of orchids alone to be found in Guatemala.

Largest fern I have ever seen. The photo in no way captures the size;
those similar growing in my garden are miniscule in comparison

Floral beauty captured in a collage

Exquisite Heleconia

We enjoyed a sumptuous luncheon buffet served in a grand hall of the Casa de Santo Domingo. The ambience of the ruins was charming, the service efficient, the food delicious. We sipped both Guatemalan coffee and beer.

In the distance the dining area; in the foreground a ruined wall; all around were ancient artifacts

Delicious coffee, beer and Guatemalan food enjoyed in the company of Travel Time Pals

The Cathedral and Town Square are the focal point of the city. Both are the gathering places for many. This side of the Cathedral is functional and offers opportunities for worship. The backside of the Cathedral is closed to the public due to earthquake damage. On the opposite side from the Cathedral is the Mercado, a tourist haven full of restaurants, bars and plenty of shops.

La Antigua Cathedral and Town Square

Welcoming holy statues

A locked door offering a glance into the Cathedral ruins

Magnificent bell sculpture set among the ruins

We all agreed if would be pleasant to spend a few days exploring ancient capital of La Antiqua located not far from the new capital, Guatemala City. The street balconies alone are a photographers dream. So close they are to the sidewalks one must keep a heads up or suffer bumps and bruises. It is also necessary to keep heads down as the curbs can steep, the slopes precarious. In other words, setting a slow, meandering pace is the best plan since along all the streets are quaint boutiques, inviting courtyards, charming restaurants, nooks and crannies offering every product and service imaginable. Our tour ended with a brief visit to a Mayan Jade factory. The gems were magnificent and the security tight.

Street balcony just at head level; handmade chairs for sale in a furniture shop; Guatemalan souvenirs

A hotel with peaceful courtyard, charming restaurant and welcoming bouquet at the entrance.
Rates $100-$120 US depending on the season

Entrance to Jade Maya; security guard; RP grimacing at the $$ handed over to smiling me for my birthday present - 3 piece jewelry set of Caribbean pearls, Austrian crystals and Mayan jade.

The La Antiqua City Hall is adjacent to the Cathedral and the Town Square. An upper balcony offers a sweeping vista of this beautiful town. We enjoyed a relaxing 20 minutes for taking photos or lounging on comfortable, handcrafted benches.

Roof tops of the nearby building

The hillside in the distance is the lower slope of one of the three volcanoes surrounding La Antigua

Colonial archways of the City Hall balcony decorated with wrought iron stands and ornate clay flower pots



La Antigua Town Square, vibrant with social activity, children frolicking and vendors galore

The streets of this town reminded RP and me of the villages in India; DS and LS were reminded of villages in Cuba except the vehicles were newer than in Cuba.

Coca Cola found world wide; tour bus and many motorcycles; crowded curve heading into the city; a modern Tuk Tuk

Macaws live high in the jungle throughout Central America. This was the first we saw in our travels on this trip. The courtyard of Casa de Santo Domingo had several perches for these huge, colourful, raucous creatures. They are well cared for but sadly have had their wings clipped, which disable them from flying to a jungle refuge. There are 300 species of birds to found in this tropical Eden.

Grand Macaws

Although this excursion was hurried by an somewhat annoying travel guide, we savoured the brief glimpse into an incredible historic site. Of all the amazing experiences on this cruise adventure, La Antigua offered the most appealing lure to return for a longer, more leisurely visit. I really want to stay in a quaint boutique hotel, sample more of the delicious food, meet more of the charming, friendly residents and spend some dollars in the unique shops. We loved the vibrant, colourful kaleidoscope of life in Guatemala. 

A DRAM OF RUM - NICARAGUA

Our next port was Nicaragua, another Central American country, which stretches from ocean to ocean; often called the Land of Lakes and Volcanoes. It is bordered to the north by Guatemala and to the south by Costa Rica. The entrance to the harbor of Puerto Corinto at breakfast time was exposed to heavy wave action; dishes and trays crashed to floor in the buffet offering a cacophony of noise juxtaposed with the horn of our boat. Welcome to Nicaragua! 

The pilot boat for our ship at the approach to the harbor in Corinto, Guatemala

Corinto is a major port and the harbour bustled with activity. We docked adjacent to a 2012 built freighter, although we thought it was an ancient vessel so rusted and decrepit it was. A cargo was off-loaded on to truck after truck, all lined up to receive a white powdery substance. Only few workers wore masks. Our WORK SAFE personnel would have been horrified. We joked about the nature of the white powder until we were informed it was fertilizer.

Freighter laden with chemical fertilizer;
notice the white patch of fertilizer near the painted arrows; stray white powder hovered and settled.

We were told the main economic support of Nicaragua is the agriculture industry: cane sugar, rum from the cane sugar, peanuts, which are used in Snicker Bars and tropical fruits such as pineapples, bananas and mangoes.

Dole Freighter laden with Dole containers

We have, in previous travels, enjoyed tours of wine, beer and whiskey distilleries. Why not take in a tour of a rum distillery? DS and LS had originally booked a hike on a volcano. They came to their senses and joined us instead for rum tasting. Soon after breakfast we boarded another comfortable air conditioned bus and met our guide. As with the others, he was well informed and passionate about his job; a few of his off colour jokes were offensive to some but we chuckled politely. The tour took us through the streets of Corinto and we quickly realized we were in a third world country. RP and I have travelled through several regions in northern India and rarely saw the level of poverty we observed in Nicaragua. Most of the homes are small, one level huts complete with bars on the windows and doors, tin, thatch or plastic roofs, open ditches running in front of the homes. RAZOR WIRE EVERYWHERE!

Many homes had make shift tin roofs

This seemed to be a gathering place; many were sheltered under the plastic roof

An interesting fact related to razor wire mentioned in the previous blog. Barbed wire strung between fence posts is all that separates Nicaragua and Costa Rica. While travelling in India we did not notice an abundance of coiled barbed wire but it is used extensively in Nicaragua. Guess what? Most of Nicaragua's razor wire is imported from India. We are still not sure of the purpose of the wire as it could easily be snipped for access to the property. Maybe it deters snakes. Or perhaps the visual threat it enough deterrence.

Nicaragua, for decades, suffered civil wars and brutal military regimes. It is now a democracy, ruled by the Sandinista party; the long serving president and his wife, the vice-president, have strong support. Our guide explained that there are political issues of concern but the residents are happy to have free health care and education options. Crimes levels were not mentioned or discussed but security factions were very noticeable. Most definitely there is extreme distinction between social class levels. Our guide basically described his country as topsy-turvy and used the anology, "Our corks sink and our rocks float." There is no rhyme or reason.

The sign in Spanish mentions Sandinista

The streets are narrow and often cobblestoned or tiled with pavers. Many ride bicycles or scooters. There are few cars but countless transport trucks ranging from 'ready for the wrecker' to brand new rigs.

Old trucks parked on the narrow streets

We saw lots of three wheeled bicycles equipped with extra seats for transporting passengers or wagons/baskets for transporting products. No helmets were observed at all.

Scooters and bicycles are the main transportation modes

A typical narrow street

In Nicaragua much livestock roams freely along freeways, roads and lanes. There are some large cattle fenced farms owned by the wealthy minority but the poor majority cannot afford to feed their horses, cows and goats. The skinny, noticeably ribbed animals find food wherever possible. Pests such as snakes and rats frequent the sugar cane fields. The cane is burned each season to rid the fields of the dangers before harvesting the crop. Our guide said no one walks the sugar cane fields. 

Scrawny cattle just a few feet from our bus along side a busy freeway;
we noticed many animals such as this on the entire road trip to the distillery

The skies were again ominous as we arrived at the distillery; the air with heavy with moisture; the sights we had seen were depressing; the poverty immense. Our bus passed through large swinging gates and cleared an armed security detail. It was like moving into another time. Everything was pristine, modern and well organized. The rains held off and the tour began.

Flor de Cana welcome sign

Flor de Cana is a family owned company established in 1890; a fifth generation now leads the business. The Pellas Family is proud to provide an essential social-economic service to the citizens of Nicaragua in that it employs 8000 people, provides a school and a hospital for the workers and their families and produces a product that is shipped to 46 countries worldwide. Most significant is the eco-friendly mission of the company. Everything is reused or recycled. The mash from the dregs of the sugar cane, once processed, is used to produce energy. Old storage barrels that have reached the end of efficiency are repurposed into furniture. The benches and chairs we sat on to watch a video about the company were all made from old rum barrels. The commitment to sustainability and social responsibility is remarkable.

A train used in the early days of the company

A 2017 electric train used to transport tourists such as ourselves

Vladimir was our exceptional guide through the plant. He was well informed, funny and a loyal supporter of the company. We were not permitted to take photos in the tasting room. It was set up with the kind of elegance we experienced in the Strathisla distillery in Scotland. We were educated as to the correct way to savour the gluten free, calorie free, five times distilled product of sugar cane from Nicaragua and then invited to sample 7 and 18 year old Flor de Cana rum. I'm not partial to rum but this I could enjoy neat or on the rocks. Pura Vida!

Following  the tasting, the tour continued to a large building where barrels were being assembled. The company buys white oak bourbon barrels from the United States; the barrels are broken down for transport and reassembled and sealed to meet the standards necessary for aging rum in a tropical climate. Approximately 150 barrels are day are remade at this plant.

Rum barrel assembly machine

Barrels ready for transport to the distillery

Once assembled the barrels are moved to the distillery for filling. There are 14 warehouses on the property; each warehouse stores rum in all stages of aging. The company produces 7, 18 and 25 year old vintages. There is a 6% commission offered each year to the angels; in other words evaporation at 6% yearly. Contended angels in Nicaragua, I presume. The reason each warehouse stores rum of every vintage is the threat of fire. If a warehouse is lost to fire only a small percentage of each vintage would be destroyed rather than an entire production run. As we entered the smallest warehouse the aroma was very strong; apparently the air is extremely volatile. The danger of fire is prominent enough that the company has its own three engine fire company. Vladimir explained that even if one warehouse was lost the company would still have enough rum to supply 46 countries rum for 25 years. The production level is significant and extremely impressive. 

Our guide at the door to the smallest warehouse on the property

The warehouse we visited was the smallest. Stored many tiers high were approximately160,000 barrels of rum of all vintages. Each year each barrel is topped up after the angels have received their commission. The other warehouses are each five times larger than the one we toured.

Our tour ended with a brief stop at the company museum and gift shop. The artifacts are well preserved and presented in a professional, appealing manner. The gift shop offered another tasting of rum and a wide array of reasonably priced souvenirs. Once on the bus we each received an airline sample of the rum. The tour was excellent. Our travel pals were very glad they passed on the volcano hiking adventure.

It was necessary for a our ship to be docked at the cargo pier as the cruise ship pier had been damaged by an out of control ship in a recent storm. When we returned to the dock we were amazed at the level of security and the number of transport trucks not only in the secured area but also outside the dock waiting a turn to be loaded with the chemical fertilizers. Passage of our bus on the narrow streets was barely possible. I wish I could have taken a photo of one tired driver waiting his turn. He had strung a hammock between the axels of his truck and was comfortable swinging under the truck and back into the lane of traffic, all the while texting on his phone.

New rigs waiting for cargo lading with our ship in the background

Darkness fell as we boarded the vessel to prepare for the next leg of the journey. In the words of Minor from Costa Rica - PURA VIDA!

As an aside:
We were unable to transport rum home in our luggage and the guide was unable to confirm availability in our region of Canada. Sure enough, the day after we returned home RP purchased a bottle of 7 year old Flor de Cana from our BC Signature Liquor Store for $26.00, a price comparable to the gift shop rate.

Pura Vida - Puntarenas

We had the pleasure of another stop in Costa Rica at Puntarenas, north of Golfito, the sleepy village on the edge of the jungle. Puntarenas is the main port on the Pacific side of Costa Rica, much larger than the previous port with more amenities and services. Our first glimpse offered garbage laden, messy beaches. As we drove from the port we noticed large bull dozers and a caterpillar machine working on one of the beach areas. The guide explained that Costa Rica had been hit badly with a recent hurricane. It wiped out roads, flooded villages, damaged homes and destroyed many of the lovely beaches tourists and locals enjoy. We were fortunate that the road to our destination did not suffer extreme damage.

Garbage laden beach at the Port of Puntarenas

Costa Rica is a democratic country. Decades ago in the previous century, after years of military unrest and dictatorship, it was decided to abolish the army. Costa Rica of today has no army and the country has enjoyed a peaceful existence for many years. However, when catastrophic events occur an army would come in handy, according to our guide. The government and municipal resources are stretched in dealing with the hurricane response. Most of the beaches remain cluttered because there are still many rural communities cut off with no electricity, fresh water, food or road access since the hurricane struck about ten days before our departure. The main focus of the government at this time is to provide support to the isolated rural communities.

We felt distressed and saddened on two accounts: first that it seems little in the way of international assistance has come the way of Costa Rica; second that the people of our collective world see fit to throw their trash into the ocean. Much of it has debased the shores this poor, struggling country. The proud, hard working people of Costa Rica now must dispose of the world's trash. It is shameful and disheartening.

Comfortable in an air conditioned coach listening to safety instructions from our guide.

The shore excursion on the agenda was another boat cruise. This one on a river also promised a glimpse of wildlife. Our guide Minor, named for the gentleman who built a railroad in Costa Rica, was enthusiastic, humourous, polite and very safety conscious. The latter characteristic will be learned, we hope by the guides on the sunset cruise the previous day. The destination bus was comfortable, clean and air conditioned, a quality much appreciated as the humidity remained high. Minor, throughout the journey, kept us well informed about various aspects of the culture, the political system and the socio-Economic issues faced by this developing nation. Along the way to the river destination Minor pointed out interesting features of the countryside and chatted about the people who live on the edges of the jungle.

A Fence Tree

Many properties are divided by the fence tree. I don't know the botanical name of the tree but it grows profusely in Costa Rica. Any cut branch can be planted in the ground to form a new tree. Since the climate is conducive to rapid plant growth new branches are regularly pruned and immediately replanted to form a fence.

A typical farm house with bananas growing nearby

The homes are very small and usually one level

The Eco Mangrove River Cruise was a highlight for the Travel Time Pals. It was well organized with good attention given to safety aspects. The reception facility was pristine with the cleanest wash-rooms we've every experienced in a park situation.


Outdoor washing station at the cruise reception center

Staff quickly organized the passengers and handled the boarding of the boats efficiently.

Eco Mangrove River Cruiser

We were well covered with sun screen and insect repellent. Both were not needed as the boat and the mangrove trees provided plenty of shade. The earlier wind and rain storms provided a reprieve from mosquitoes. Once the rains end the standing water will be the perfect breeding ground but we will be long gone. I was annoyed by a single fly.

Ready to search for wildlife

Minor was well informed about life on the river and assured us he would do his best to find creatures lurking in the waters, resting on the banks or nestled in the trees. Most of the wildlife in the area is well camouflaged. We were fortunate that guide and boat captain had precise vision and knew what to look for. Camouflage in the name of the game in this eco system.

A mangrove river estuary

The river water was low on this day as the ocean tide was ebbing. It is an estuary impacted by the ebb and flow of the ocean. The colour of the water is dark because the mangrove roots grow into the water.

Mangrove roots

The roots of the mangrove tree provide a habitat of many creatures in the eco system. Our guide spotted a baby alligator resting in the sun on a root. This little guy is still small enough to be prey to larger birds. Fortunately for him, most of the birds we saw were too small to tangle with his scaly skin and sharp teeth.

Alligator, about 5 months old

The river constantly breaks off the roots of the trees but the old wood seldom causes the water to dam up. Termites, huge colonies of them, work tirelessly to consume the old wood. No one would want to encounter a termite nest the size of the one we saw on the river. There were countless nests throughout the mangrove forest.

The dark mass is a termite nest

Minor was keen to point out a variety of tropical birds, butterflies, crabs, a few alligators and even a raccoon peeking out from high above, well sheltered in a broken tree.

Blue Heron, Raccoon, 8-10 year old alligator

The relaxing and interesting excursion on the river ended much to soon. On the return journey our guide continued an informative dialogue about his country. His favourite saying throughout the day was Pura Vida, which means 'good life' or 'all is well'. He had such a positive attitude and extreme pride in his beautiful country. Costa Rica is in good hands with residents like Minor who honour nature and strive to protect the beauty of the land.

Razor wire was a common sight in Central America

We had a brief stop at souvenir market where we were treated to steel drum entertainment, fruit juice, beer or coffee, a sample of fresh fruit and a some time to purchase souvenirs. Back at the cruise ship terminal more entertainment was provided on the dock.

Shuttle buses at the pier, Dancers and Drummers

That evening, as our ship sailed on calm waters, we discussed the positive, unique experience of the day and decided life definitely is PURA VIDA!

An oil paintng at the reception center