Homeward bound

Two days ago we left Chandigarh on the evening train, a train packed with shoppers and businessmen. It was first class, clean, comfortable with an array of drinks, snacks & a meal provided. It was also a cellphone symphony concert. India is connected by mobile; everyone has a phone which is used constantly. The closer we got to Delhi the more the mobiles rang. One obnoxious gentleman seated directly behind me carried on a 3 hour conversation in a loud voice using a mix of English and Hindii. We now know his financial status, his health status and that he is not a person who scams or cheats anyone. We have decided the entire population is out to make a buck. Rupee, being the good Indian he is, has decided to join the ranks. He has asked me to inform all of you following the blog that he will take up a collection to cover my computer time fees. I'll bring home a bunch of 1 rupee coins to distribute. These may be used to contribute to Rupee's collection drive :)

We were happy to get back to Delhi. It is a vibrant, exciting city that provides something interesting and/or entertaining every moment of the day and night. Yesterday was the beginning of the celebration of Guru Nanak's birthday. Traffic around the Gudwara's [temples] is absolutely crazy. On our first day in Delhi we met a couple of 3 wheeler drivers who want to always take us somewhere. They were thrilled that we were back and graciously [for a fee, of course] took us to the bank, to a shop where they get a kickback, to the Janpath shopping area, to Pizza Hut [where we had the best pizzas ever], back to the hotel and even offered to take us to a bootlegger. That was because all the liquour stores in Delhi are closed for G.N.'s birthday. Damon was not happy about it being a dry day. We declined the bootlegger and went to the hotel bar for happy hour instead. Yesterday we also found the elusive Emporium which we kept hearing about every time we were in Delhi. It is a government sanctioned cottage craft shop that is spread out over 6 floors. What an amazing selection - wish we'd found it sooner. Naturally we shopped but had to restrain ourselves as all suitcases including the extra ones we bought here are full. For 3 hours in the afternoon we had the use of a taxi. We had complained to the hotel travel services about our directionally challenged, very bad driver we had hired for our Jalandhar trip. To appease angry guests the travel director provided us with a taxi for 3 hours yesterday and another 3 hours today. We used the services to take us to a residential part of the city to visit Rupee's cousin, Surindher. An interesting story Rupee's family will be wanting to hear when we get back. Dinner last night was on the recommendation of Mamohan, our 3 wheeler buddy. Castle 9 provided the best Indian food we have had during the entire trip. We walked into the building to the sounds of Kenny Rogers, The Gambler. The music all evening was great - Bryan Adams, Bee Gees etc. Lots of old tunes that we all enjoyed.

So this morning we had our last breakfast in Delhi at the Connaught. We are hoping to find Delhi's Hard Rock Cafe for lunch this afternoon and take in a few more sights. It is going to be a long day as our flight does not leave until 23:15. Then it is a 30 hour journey back to Victoria. We hope to catch the 3:00 ferry on Saturday, with luck maybe the 1:00. I hope you have all enjoyed following the blog. It has been fun for me to share our adventures with you. I'll be on a mission today to get more 1 rupee coins for that collection. Our trip has been memorable. Words cannot describe the impact it has had on all of us. Take care and we'll see you soon.

Chandigarh-last day

Tonight we catch the Shatabdi Express back to Delhi. Chandigarh has been another enjoyable experience. Each place we have visited has its own special characteristics. This city is the result of Pandit Nehru's dream - a city to symbolize India's freedom in 1947. The entire city was planned by one architect and is divided into sectors. The streets are wide & tree-lined. For the first time since arriving in India we have seen sidewalks made of interlocking pavers, parking stalls and lane line paintings. Although it is busy and noisy everything is organized and clean - there is not the chaos we have experienced in other cities. The buildings are modern and the tent cities few and far between. We have had a wonderful time shopping at a huge bazaar that reflects our western shopping plazas. Many of the stores carry name brands and the prices asked are similar to what we would pay at home but the selection of goods is huge and styles are very modern. Even the problem with beggars is minimal. Yesterday we hired a car and driver for a 4 hour tour of the city. We took in a beautiful rose garden, an incredible rock garden, saw the famour Panjab University and meandered along the shores of a man-made lake. It was relaxing, pleasant time on a warm, sunny day. Chandigarh is also the capital of the states of Haryana and Punjab so there are many government offices and a high court. The city planners have made a good effort catering to families and young people. We were told in Jalandhar that Chandigarh is the go-to place for the young and upwardly mobile in India. We can certainly understand why that is after spending a couple of days here. Yesterday we also attempted to visit the Chandigarh Golf Course where the Indian Amateur sponsored by LG is playing. Rupee and Damon were allowed to visit the proshop but Nicole and I had to stay in the car. So even with all the modern ammenities there is still a huge male dominance factor. After all that the proshop was closed so the men are going back this morning while Nicole and I deal with the computer - blog postings and email. D & N had a craving yesterday for pizza after almost 3 weeks of Indian food. Speaking of Indian food - Damon has gorged himself so much that he now resembles Buddha - picture posted is proof. Our driver took us to Domino's and we had a great lunch - see picture. Not only did we find Dominos but we also found a liquor store that sold Australian wine. Of course, we had to sample that. Wine has not been easy to acquire in this country - of drinks of choice have been beer, Barcardi Breezers & scotch. Last night at dinner we met a delightful Indian couple from England who are visiting family here. We're meeting them in the bar lounge this afternoon before all of us travel back to Delhi by rail. Before meeting our new friends we'll probably take a bicycle rickshaw ride just for the fun of it. Our time in India is quickly coming to an end. We can't believe how fast the time has gone by. The memories will last forever.

Chandigarh

We arrived in Chandigarh yesterday. Today is November 11 - a day of remembrance. We are remembering and feeling blessed for the freedoms we have. Also a special Happy Birthday wish to Grandma. We are thinking of her today and send our best love. My computer hour is quickly running out so I will post more about this beautiful city later. We're off on a 4 hour city tour. The guys are looking forward to visiting the Chadigarh Golf Course on the tour. The Indian Amateur starts there today.

Jandiala & Jalundhar

I'm a bit behind with the blog postings because the computer access at our hotel was sporadic at best. The visit to Rupee's homeland was delightful. We made a second visit to Jandiala and The Pallan Cloth House. Mukhan Lal was a gracious host who was very happy we shopped well in his store. We have purchased lots of souvenirs from Jandiala. On our way to his home for tea we were verbally accosted by a couple eunuchs - very annoying, arrogant people. Generally they get away with hassling shopkeepers and village residents who most often have to pay them to go away. On this occasion, however, Rupee's cousin yelled right back at them and sent them on their way with nothing. It took awhile for them to leave - they just stood outside Mukhan's door and yelled their obsenities. It was another experience to add to our list of unforgettables. On our way out of the village that day we stopped to take photos of the school R's father attended as a young boy in India some 80 years ago. It still operates as a school. Later that evening we went to an amazing restaurant in Jalandhar with 2 gentleman we met at our hotel. Haveli is more than a restaurant. It is like a them park showcasing the traditional Punjabi life style. The place is decked out in lights, has life size statues representing various aspects of village life and real people demonstrating such things as weaving, goldsmithing, leather crafts, etc. There were jugglers, magicians, monkey acts and even a camel ride. Of course, we rode the camel. It was hilarious and so much fun. After meandering through the replica of a Punjabi village we enjoyed a traditional Punjabi meal at the beautiful restaurant. We were seated at low, intricately carved tables and served a huge feast in small stainless steel bowls that were positioned on a steel tray. The male waiters were dressed in traditional costume. There was music, dancing and lively entertainment throughout the evening. All this for $30 - that is for all six of us @ $5 each. What an incredible experience. Our last day in Jalandhar was spent with Amar Singh and his family. They fed us again like royalty and took us to Jalandhar's Hindu Temple. It is an ornate temple coupled with a theme park atmosphere. There are bigger than life, colourful statues of all the Hindu Gods. At one point we walked into what appeared to be the open mouth of a very large beast. It was dark and there was a waterway we had to walk through. So off we went with bare feet and pants rolled up trusting our Indian family to lead the way. Apparently we were given good luck by doing this. Again, another memorable experience. Many people stared at us at the temple; they were curious and fascinated. Several young children wanted their picture taken with Damon and Nicole. The family is so proud of their faith and were honoured that we could share it with them. When it was time to leave that day the goodbyes were emotional for everyone. Amar Singh and all his family feels blessed to have had us visit but we are the ones truly blessed. These people are so loving and accepting. We will have a place in our hearts for them forever. I'll attempt to post pictures today but the computer I'm using is not cooperating.

Lidhran

Nov. 7 was a day for verification of historical data. For 65 years Rupee has believed he was born in the Jandiala village of Jalandhar. Actually, he spent his toddler years in his grandfather's home in Jandiala but was born elsewhere. Today we found out that he was actually born in the Lidhran village of Jalandhar. According to Indian tradition the female returns to her parents' home to give birth. Rupee's mother was from Lidhran and that is where she went when Rupee was due. We visited this quiet village not far from our hotel and saw the exterior of Shakuntla's family home and the courtyard where she and Nand Lal were married almost 67 years ago. The building is in disarray but still standing. The amazing event here in this small town was that Rupee was recognized by an old Sikh gentleman, Jaspir Singh, who remembered the day Kunti's son was born. Jaspir is now 87 years old. Remarkable to come so far and make such connections. R's cousin also took us to the family farm. Most of the land was expropriated by the government in 1990 for installation of power lines. The family received a pittance. There is. however, still some farm land left and it produces potatoes, rice and wheat for the family consumption and for sale. Ashok is a successful businessman who owns 5 tractor/trolley units which he hires out for farm service. R's uncle, Amar Singh, also 87 rides each morning several km. from the family home to the farm to pick up the milk for the day. This ride is on a bicycle along rutted dirt roads, across 4 lanes of a busy highway and along paved village roads. Today there is a picture of this remarkable gentleman on his bicycle. After visiting R's real birth place and the farm we returned to Amar Singh's home for a sumptuous repast - delicious Indian food. We were again treated like royalty. Two of the male family members accompanied us to a goldsmith's shop where Damon bought a gold ring. It has been another emotional and terrific day in India.

Amritsar

Nov. 6 was our day to travel to Amritsar [holy pool of milk and honey]. This sacred city is 84km from Jalandhar City. That doesn't seem like a long distance but the ride seemed to go on forever. Our terrible, eratic and inconsistent driver gave us a thrill ride for sure, although I would described it as a white knuckle ride for a couple of hours. He had told us he knew the city but we needed to stop for directions at least 3 times. At last we found a government parkade, left the driver and hoofed it the rest of the way. The Golden Temple is truly golden - 24 karat golden. It is lovely in its holiness. We felt serene and relaxed in spite of the crowds. After our vist to the temple we took a 3 wheeler to the Jallianwala Bagh where 2300 Indians we massacred by the British in 1919. Countries from all over the world have contributed money to make this area a memorial park. The bullet holes are still there, as is the well where many people jumped to their deaths in an attempt to escape General Dyer's gunfire. It was another quest to find our way out of Amritsar back to the highway leading to Jalandhar. Once back at the hotel we ditched our ditzy driver and called Rupee's cousin, Ashok. He came to the hotel in his small Suzuki Maruti to pick us up and take us to the family home, atbout 25 min. away. It was a royal welcome for us. Everyone from R's 87 year old uncle and his to wife to the newest family member a 12 day old baby made us feel very special. Drinks, snacks and an evening meal were laid out for us and the evening was full of laughter, stories and family gossip. Amar Singh feels blessed that we chose to visit him before he dies. It is really us who have been blessed by this humble, caring and generous people. Pictures today will be of the Golden Temple and the family of Amar Singh, Rupee's Mother's brother..

Jandiala

Nov. 5 again - after we checked in. There was a bit of a problem with check in as the hotel had our reservations starting 2 days earlier. Fortunately, we were able to get the issue cleared up quickly. We then called our driver to take us to Jandiala, Rupee's birthplace. Our driver had assured us in Delhi that he was very familiar with the Punjab and knew his way around - not so!
After stopping serveral times for directions R finally got out of the vehicle and asked a group of ladies waiting at a bus stop. Luck would have it that they were from the village. Two of the eldest ladies offered to show us the way if we would give them a ride. They were in their glory riding in a fancy Toyota with a group of lost Canadians. They took us right to the Pallan Cloth House. Our driver went as fas as possible through the narrow streets and we walked the rest of the way on foot. The distant cousin who owns the cloth house was delighted to have family visit. We made some purchases and then he showed us around the village. It was such an emotional time for us to be in the place where R was born and the place where his grandfather had built a towering mansion of a home 80 years ago. The home still stands tall in all its grandeur but is unfortunately unhabitated. The cousin tells us that people want something more modern in these days. We were able to wander through the rooms, saw the stairs R fell down as a child and where Grandma used to cook the family meals. I'm amazed R survived the fall. The stairs are incredibly narrow, very deep, very steep and curve in a semi-spiral. We all knew that but it has to be seen to be believed. On our village tour we met several excited Pallans who were so happy we were there. There are 50 Pallan families still in the village and many want to meet us so plan to go back sometime in the next couple of days. Mukan Lal showed us his home and the well/water pump that R's grandfather donated to the village 80 years ago - still functioning. After a confusing drive back to the hotel we have decided that our driver is probably the worst in India. In the evening R called his cousin Ashok who came with his son to visit in the hotel room. It was an evening of laughs and family gossip. We will meet all the rest of Ashok's family On Thursday. His father is Grandma's elder brother. Thursday is also our day to visit the Golden Temple in Amritsar. More on that later.