Amritsar

Nov. 6 was our day to travel to Amritsar [holy pool of milk and honey]. This sacred city is 84km from Jalandhar City. That doesn't seem like a long distance but the ride seemed to go on forever. Our terrible, eratic and inconsistent driver gave us a thrill ride for sure, although I would described it as a white knuckle ride for a couple of hours. He had told us he knew the city but we needed to stop for directions at least 3 times. At last we found a government parkade, left the driver and hoofed it the rest of the way. The Golden Temple is truly golden - 24 karat golden. It is lovely in its holiness. We felt serene and relaxed in spite of the crowds. After our vist to the temple we took a 3 wheeler to the Jallianwala Bagh where 2300 Indians we massacred by the British in 1919. Countries from all over the world have contributed money to make this area a memorial park. The bullet holes are still there, as is the well where many people jumped to their deaths in an attempt to escape General Dyer's gunfire. It was another quest to find our way out of Amritsar back to the highway leading to Jalandhar. Once back at the hotel we ditched our ditzy driver and called Rupee's cousin, Ashok. He came to the hotel in his small Suzuki Maruti to pick us up and take us to the family home, atbout 25 min. away. It was a royal welcome for us. Everyone from R's 87 year old uncle and his to wife to the newest family member a 12 day old baby made us feel very special. Drinks, snacks and an evening meal were laid out for us and the evening was full of laughter, stories and family gossip. Amar Singh feels blessed that we chose to visit him before he dies. It is really us who have been blessed by this humble, caring and generous people. Pictures today will be of the Golden Temple and the family of Amar Singh, Rupee's Mother's brother..

Jandiala

Nov. 5 again - after we checked in. There was a bit of a problem with check in as the hotel had our reservations starting 2 days earlier. Fortunately, we were able to get the issue cleared up quickly. We then called our driver to take us to Jandiala, Rupee's birthplace. Our driver had assured us in Delhi that he was very familiar with the Punjab and knew his way around - not so!
After stopping serveral times for directions R finally got out of the vehicle and asked a group of ladies waiting at a bus stop. Luck would have it that they were from the village. Two of the eldest ladies offered to show us the way if we would give them a ride. They were in their glory riding in a fancy Toyota with a group of lost Canadians. They took us right to the Pallan Cloth House. Our driver went as fas as possible through the narrow streets and we walked the rest of the way on foot. The distant cousin who owns the cloth house was delighted to have family visit. We made some purchases and then he showed us around the village. It was such an emotional time for us to be in the place where R was born and the place where his grandfather had built a towering mansion of a home 80 years ago. The home still stands tall in all its grandeur but is unfortunately unhabitated. The cousin tells us that people want something more modern in these days. We were able to wander through the rooms, saw the stairs R fell down as a child and where Grandma used to cook the family meals. I'm amazed R survived the fall. The stairs are incredibly narrow, very deep, very steep and curve in a semi-spiral. We all knew that but it has to be seen to be believed. On our village tour we met several excited Pallans who were so happy we were there. There are 50 Pallan families still in the village and many want to meet us so plan to go back sometime in the next couple of days. Mukan Lal showed us his home and the well/water pump that R's grandfather donated to the village 80 years ago - still functioning. After a confusing drive back to the hotel we have decided that our driver is probably the worst in India. In the evening R called his cousin Ashok who came with his son to visit in the hotel room. It was an evening of laughs and family gossip. We will meet all the rest of Ashok's family On Thursday. His father is Grandma's elder brother. Thursday is also our day to visit the Golden Temple in Amritsar. More on that later.

Shatabadi Express

Early Nov. 5 we checked out of our hotel and took a short drive but long in time to the Delhi Railway station. Long in time because even at 6 am there is traffic chaos, particularly at the train station. There did not seem to be any rhyme or reason but eventually our guide got us into the station. We then lugged our luggage for what seemed blocks and blocks and down 3 long flights of stairs only to find there was a last minute change to the arrival platform. So it was back up the 3 flights and then more block walking to platform 1. However, we were at the wrong end of the train - back to block walking - Indian trains are reallllly long. We finally got on board and were ready to go. Thank heavens for a trusty guide who stayed with us until departure. The train was first class/air conditioned so the 5 hour ride was very pleasant. The sighes along the way were, as always, unique and interesting. Life in India happens right along side the tracks in full view of passers by, that includes morning abulations of every kind imaginable. This express train is precisely on schedule. When we arrived in Jalandhar we had 2 minutes to get off. We had hired a car & driver at the Delhi hotel and there he was waiting for us. There was a bit of confusion in the parking lot because the vehicles were so crammed that we couldn't get in. That gave a very annoying beggar child the opportunity to swarm D&N. He was touching their feet, scrambling all around and whining - usually they are not that aggressive. Finally, R swore at him and give him a coin. It was a short trip to our hotel - Maya Palace. It is really nice so we're looking forward to spending 5 days in very comfortable surroundings.
By the way, India is celebrating Barack Obama's win and the press media loved the story of the the Canadian phoning Sarah Palin pretending to be the French President.

Delhi again

Well our trip back to Delhi was interesting. The driver we had for the airport transfer was quite apprehensive, maybe even nervous. That does not work well in India - aggression and confidence are much better. We eventually arrived at the airport - what a confusing, chaotic mess. The building was like a hanger, the crowds were dense, the acoustics terrible, and the technology minimal. Fortunately, our attentive guide stayed until he was sure we had cleared security. Again confusion & crowds. The flight was delayed by 2 hours so we spent a considerable period of time surrounded by noisy, smelly people speaking a miriad of languages. Our flight was only 200 min. but when we landed it was a 25 min. taxi ride to meet a bus and then a 15 min. ride to the domestic terminal. Backage pickup went smoothly and we were greeted by our friendly Bestway Tour guide for the hotel transfer. Well, traffic in Delhi being what is meant the ride from the airport to the hotel took longer than the flight. Our guide graciously agreed to stop at a shop for beer and snacks as it was 8:00 and we were in need. Rupee went to the get the treats with the guides while C, D & N stayed with the driver. We were parked in the middle of a side street which did not please the policeman who waved a big stick at us and told us to move on. At least, it wasn't a rifle. Then R & the guide had to phone the driver to find out where we were. Interesting - we could communicate by cellphone but there are no parking meters. If you need to leave your vehicle parked you must hire someone to stand guard. Back at the Connaught we felt luxurious. After snacks it was back to TGI Fridays as we needed a break from Indian food. Great food - very confusing service from the waiters but we didn't care because we were famished. After a great sleep and nourshing breakfast we took a 3 wheeler to the Delhi Emporium which we had discovered on our last night here. We did a little shopping, took another 3 wheeler to the HSBC bank to withdraw money. The regular ATM machines in India are not very reliable. I actually tried to exchange CAN$ at the bank and they wouldn't do it - just sent me to a street vendor authorized by Thomas Cook. It is a little kiosk tucked in the wall between shops. One needs to look carefully for the sign. Both couples needed to purchase an extra suitcase as we have done considerable shopping. We were successful doing that in JanPath shopping area. This is a place we'll return to on our last day here - great shopping. Delhi today is quite different from Delhi during Diwali. It is still busy, noisy and congested but is much cleaner and there seem to be fewer beggars. None of us expected this difference. Mid-afternoon and time for a beer break. I know it seems like we're drinking a lot of beer but it is hot, the air is smoggy and selection of beverages is limited. Last visit we sat by our room's picture window and watched the antics on the street below. This visit we are on the back side of the building with a view of an excavation hole. You may think the view would not be pleasant, however, it is more than interesting. The excavation hole is of a size that would accomadate several a building of many stories - not much different from the downtown Victoria construction sites. At the moment, the foundation is being poured - by hand. There is one cement mixer, several men making the cement and a half dozen sari clad women, wearing flip flops, moving pans of cement on their heads to the foundation area. There are no trucks or heavy machinery in sight. Another part of the foundation seems to be of 24x18 concrete blocks being set into cement. The blocks are up at the street level and are moved, one at time, to the excavation hole by young men who carry each block on their heads. The young barefooted children of the workers are playing happily in the construction area. It is a WCB nightmare in the making. Oh yes, we also watched the antics of several rats on the perimeter of the site. While at our hotel we made arrangements for a car & driver while we're in Jalundhar. We leave for Rupee's birth city early tomorrow morning and travel by train. I'm sure there will be more interesting stories to post about the next mode of travel. Pictures today - the Delhi skyline with excavation hole in foreground & sari cement ladies.

Back to Delhi

We had a quiet last evening in Varanasi - no bugs at dinner tonight. R, C, & N ate sparingly as our tummies aren't too happy at the moment - nothing that a little Immodium won't cure. D&N's air conditioner in the upgraded room was awful so they didn't sleep well. R&C awoke at 6:30 to the daily ringing of the bells to honour sunrise. It sounded like all the teachers in the Sooke District were ringing old fashioned school bells to mark the end of recess. Oh well, we had a good sleep so we opened the drapes and watched the sunrise over the Ganges - very beautiful. After breakfast we went to visit the bead shop lady who has been so sweet and friendly to us while we're here. She pleaded with us to come back and bring all our friends. It is really hot today - the hottest yet. We had planned a long walk on the ghats but gave up as we were dripping in minutes. I did managed to take a picture using the zoom of an ash smeared sadhu without having to pay him any money. Damon was keen to get one before we left. Can't load it right now as the USB cord is in the luggage. We checked out of our rooms to await the airport pickup only to find out all flights are delayed by one hour. D&N are playing cards in the lobby, R is snoozing and I'm blogging. Hopefully, we'll get back to Delhi without much delay. The time here has been interesting and very unique but we're ready to move on.

Varanasi - Day 3

Last night we ate dinner again at the rooftop restaurant. Although we have asked many about other places to eat this one is always recommended first. It would seem our other choices are road side stands and hole in the alley eateries. Lots of last night - quite annoying to us but the locals pay no attention. Varanasi is a truly unique and remarkable city, one of contrasts, [modern & very old, religious & secular, beautiful & ugly, people of every religion and from many countries]. The sights we see continue to entertain, amuse and put us in awe. This morning after meeting our guide we caught the 'running of the bulls Varanasi style' in the street on the way to our car - 2 bulls very annoyed with each other. We then got to view a bullfight Varnasi style right in the crowded street beside the alley to our hotel. Exciting way to start the morning. We were driven to the outskirts of the city to a place called Sarnath. It is where Buddha preached his first sermon in the 6th century BC. We found it to be a tranquil oasis away from the city bustle. We really got a feeling of the antiquity of the area. There are several monuments, a temple and an amazing musuem. As you enter the museum you are greeted by a 2300 year old carved sandstone monument of 4 lions and a 24 spoked wheel - the lion symbol of India appears on all money and official documents, the spoked wheel centers the flag. Damon now understands the meaning of the Indian flag which he has tatooed on his chest. Our guide then took us to a glass bead manufacturing center[the one Catherine recommended]. As today was Sunday we couldn't see the beads being made - most are made in village homes but some are done on sight. Sunday didn't stop the business from selling to us. We all had a wonderful shopping experience buying souvenirs. Next stop was another silk weaving cooperative, also Muslim operated. This time there was little precious and we each made a purchase. As we left this establishment we encountered a monkey with a handgun. Yikes! It was tame, the gun was fake and the owner wanted money, of course, for a picture. I wanted to pay Rs20 [50 cents] but guess who said 'no'. After returning to our hotel we walked through street leading to the main ghat. It was busy but not as congested as it has been on other days. Sunday is a day of rest for some. We found a vegetarian restaurant for a mid-afternoon snack and then braved a bicycle rickshaw ride. It was fun but very short because our drivers were prohibted from getting near the main ghat - not sure why. We payed Rs20 for a 1/2 block ride - worth the picture. Our time in Varanasi is nearing the end so Rupee and Damon decided they needed to atone for their sins and get some good luck. We found a riverside spot that wasn't too filled with garbage and they each stuck a big toe in the Ganga. Again it was worth it for the picture. I'm not sure how many sins are now atoned or how much luck they will get with only a big toe but they couldn't let Ajmare outdo them. Nicole & I opted for the role of photographer. For the last 3 days we have marveled at the transportation in this city. There are very few modern vehicles. Mainly the people use push carts, bicycle rickshaws, some 3 wheelers and motor scooters. We have seen a smattering of buses and large trucks. Most of the cars are tourist designated. It is astounding to see how the bicycles are used. Today one was pulling a wagon loaded with about 8 sacks of potatoes at least 60 pounds each; atop the sacks was a man talking on a cellphone. [see what I mean about contrasts] Bicylces are used to deliver milk in old fashioned cans and gasoline in red metal cans that look like they came from the era of the British. We saw one scrawny man wheeling a bike that was balanced with 2 steel posts, the type used for light standards. He actually managed to weave through the maze of traffic without hitting anyone or anything. For our last night we were fortunate to be able to upgrade to a deluxe room. Each room has a view of the Ganges. Right outside D&N's window is a graceful tree that is home to many monkeys. Monkey watching is on the agenda until we leave. These monkeys then fly to the flat roof top outside our window so we can do the monkey watching from either room. Our deluxe rooms are somewhat nicer than the standards we've used for the last 2 nights. We can actually walk around the bed, there is a refrigerator which works when the electricity is on, 4 towels instead of 2, and some small bottles of bath products. Rupee has had a nap already and said the bed is way more comfortable, not a board like we've endured since arriving. This city is likely the essence of India and we are excited to have had the experience. Nicole & I have decided we must be in Indian mode as we felt comfortable walking up the narrow street this afternoon without the men nearby. Tomorrow we return to Delhi for 2 nights before heading to the Punjab. We actually think it will be nice to get back to a pace that isn't so hectic. Ten days ago when we landed in Delhi we never would have believed we would be saying that there was someplace more chaotic.

Varanasi - Day 2 & 3

Damon discovered our hotel has a spa in the basement - not quite what we think of as spas but he went for a massage anyway and thought it was great. He was very relaxed by the time our guide and driver arrived for the afternoon tour yesterday. Being relaxed while driving through Varanasi is important. This place has the craziest transportation system yet - the ultimate chaos hardly describes it. I took this photo is of a family on a motor scooter directly in front of our van. Carseats for children is not part of Indian regulations. Our tour today took us to Benares Hindu University. It is huge, has a high reputation and is situated in lovely, peaceful surroundings - very different from the ghats. We visited a couple of remarkable temples and we then taken to the Muslim area for a demonstration of silk weaving. This a traditional Muslim skill passed on in families through the centuries. The silk is woven by hand right in the homes of the Muslim families. It was remarkable to see. Of course, with any demonstrations we have received we are welcomed with refreshments and a presentation of the product. This sales pitch was typically taking a very long time. We've finally figured out that we just need to be abrupt and tell them we're not interested. In the evening we wnet to the main ghat to watch a ceremony honouring the Hindu gods. It was colourful, noisy and well orchestrated - lots of music, fire, clapping, chanting and ritual. The bugs were awful tonight but the repellant seems to be keeping us from being bitten. Tomorrow we're off to Sarnath, where Buddha preached his first sermon. More to come on that.