Varanasi - Day 2

First of all - I was wrong. There is a TV and that is a good thing because none of us felt comfortable venturing too far outdoors once it was dark. D&N watched the Halloween Simpsons last night. By the way, Happy Halloween to all. We all went to bed early last night as we needed to meet our guide in the lobby at 5:30am for our sunrise cruise on the Ganges. This morning I said, "Well, it is one step up from camping." and Damon wasn't sure he agreed. As we walked through the lanes and alleys it was bustling even at that time of the morning. The sights are beyond anything one could imagine. Our guide, Chancha, was well informed and quite funny. There are 7km of ghat [steps] along the river. Our hotel overlooks the main ghat where most of the ritual bathing occurs. All the ghats are submerged during the monsoon. As the monsoon season just ended there is thick, gooey mud in many places. Our rower took us first to the cremation ghat where cremations occur 24/7. It is an interesting process. All along the river people were bathing, swimming or taking a sacred plunge into the holy waters. No one is concerned about the pollution and believe me it is POLLUTED! The dobhi wallahs [washermen] were hard at work doing the daily laundry in the river [look for a picture]. After the cruise our guide took us to Lord Krishan's temple - security everywhere because not only is it a Hindu temple but it is also a Muslim mosque. There is a definite awareness about terrorism in this country. Armed guards all along the narrow lanes watching everyone with ghigh level scrutiny. We had to deposit cameras, bags, cellphones etc. at a shop for safe keeping and then go through security gates, as tight as airports, complete with male and female pat downs. After all that, the viewing balcony was closedand we were turned away - India it is. The shopkeeper didn't charge for guarding our bags but we had to pay the courtesy of looking at his wares. I bought a couple of silk scarves. So we've done all that and it is only 7:30. Back to our rooms to shower. Jalem is going to love to hear our stories about the plumbing. We had breakfast on our hotel's rooftop restaurant. By the way, our guide told us we have the best hotel on the river - hmmmm! Glad we aren't staying in a different one. After breakfast we wandered down to the cremation ghat for a closer look and actually found our way back through the maze of alleys to the main street. I found a fabulous bead shop with an owner who did not pressure me to buy anything. Of course, I bought lots. She was delightful and I'm going back laterto buy more. We're not quite sure what to do with ourselves until 2:00 when our guide returns for a tour of the city. This place is definitely an attraction that one should see in India but certainly not a place where there is a lot to do. Hopefully, we'll get a better sense of the city during our tour. There is a photo of our hotel from the riverside so you get a sense of how high up from the river we are [look for the red flags]. Steps are the only access and every step has a depth at least 1/2 as much again as our steps. We're all going to have tight butts and strong quads by the time we leave. I would love to take lots of pictures here but am very careful doing so for several reasons: it could be disrespectful in some instances, dangerous in others and costly in others. There are many fake sadhus who demand payment. Our guide said a true sadhu would never ask for money. Trouble is you can't tell the real from the fake. It really is a photographer's dream wandering through this city; unfortunately a dream it will remain. The people here have a very difficult life but seem very happy. We're off to have lunch on the rooftop. It is a beautiful, hot day and the sights will keep us entertained until we meet our guide. I've had trouble posting photos as blogger takes forever and then the power goes out. A generator does kick in but internet access is blocked until the real power is back up and running.

Varanasi

We had a great last night in Jaipur. Our driver took us to a nearby restaurant, The Royal Court, and joined us for dinner. Rajasthani entertainment was on the menu too - drumming & dancing. Nicole was cajolled into joining the 2 dancing girls and she did a great job. Damon couldn't resist the beat so he joined in too. It was fabulous entertainment. I'll post a picture later as I left my USB cord in the room. We really enjoyed spending some time with Sateesh, our driver, and we know he enjoyed our company too. It was an early rise to catch a flight to Delhi @ 9:00. We then had our very own private security transfer on the tarmac from one plane to the other when we made our Varanasi connection. Lots of security at the airports - good thing. We were in Varanasi [Benares] by noon. Our guide was waiting to transfer us to the hotel. Now it gets interesting. Since arriving in India we have pretty much done the tourist thing and driven past the real life of India. Now we are immersed. The 45 min. drive from the airport was the craziest yet. There are fewer cars and many more scooters and bicycle rickshaws in this city of 2.5 million. Also the roads are only 2 lanes but that doesn't stop the drivers from making them into 4 lanes. It was a hair raising ride. The closer we got to the hotel the more narrow the streets became. We eventually arrived at our destination but it was nowhere to be seen. That is because we had to go on foot through several very narrow, very smelly, very creepy alleyways. Eventually we arrived at Rashmi Guest House, also known as the 'Palace on the River". Well, in the sense of height I guess it could be called a palace. We walked up way too many steps well above the Ganges just to get to the lobby. Here we were greeted with rose garlands that smell as lovely as the leis in Maui. We signed in the very old fashioned was by hand, not computer. Meanwhile the luggage coolies had carried our 2 heavy suitcases on their heads through the alleys - glad we left 2 bags at the hotel in Delhi. Next our rooms - OMG not quite the Trident Hilton. We were very disappointed to not be assigned the river view rooms we had requested. Oh well, we are in India. The rooms are postage stamp size and the bathroom is worthy of a photograph. As I looked in the bathroom I asked Rupee what room D & N were in. Damon answered 'Right next door, Mom.' Our bathrooms share a wall that has a ventillation screen at the top. I guess we have to schedule Rupee and Damon to do their business at the same time. At least the rooms are clean. Next problem - bank machines. Any that we have found in the last few days have no money. That is not because of the world credit crunch but because of Diwali. I guess a lot of money is spent on this festival. We wandered through very congested streets trying to find someplace that would dispense money. Damon finally was able to withdraw some on his Visa. Off to the ghats we go, each with a large bottle of water as it is 30+ and very muggy. The sights are something to behold and we've only had a peek. We did wander close to the cremation ghat but turned back because our shoes were sinking in the mud. After being pestered by the boatmen and people claiming to be raising money to cremate the homeless we headed back to the hotel. Again many more steps up from the river to the lobby, one floor up to our rooms and 4 floors up to the rooftop restaurant. We had delicious beer and pakorahs for a snack while sitting on the deck observing the river and riverside surroundings - kids flying kites, a cricket game on the river edge, the cricket ball landing in the river, one of the players not hesitating to go in to get it, monkeys cavorting on the rooftops within almost touching distance and parrots squawking in the treetops right at eye level. It is going to be a very interesting 3 days, to say the least. Tomorrow morning we meet our guide at 5:45 for a sunrise boat cruise - sunrise is the time Hindus take a traditional dip in the holy river Ganges. Later in the day we have a city tour. I'm sure we'll learn more about this interesting and very unique place. Right now D & N are on the other computer checking messages and Rupee went back to the room to watch TV, except there is no TV in our hotel. In fact, the air conditioner only comes on after 3:00 when there is electricity. We're so glad you are following our adventures and really appreciate the posted commments. Watch for the photo of D&N learning to dance Rajasthani.

Jaipur

After leaving Agra yesterday we drove to Fatehpur Sikiri, an abandoned city not far from Agra. It was built in the early 1600's by Akbhar, the Great [Shah Jehan's grandfather]. Rupee has decided to change his name to Akbhar as this Moghul king is his new hero. The city is another amazing example of engineering and artistry. The people of this time had even figured out how to air condition and heat the palace rooms using water flowing through hollow, but very thick walls and floors. It was only used by the Moghul for 7 years and then abandoned because the water was too salty. We observed monkeys, frog and even bats [Damon didn't like those]. At the shops I purchased beautiful beads with the help of Rupee bartering for me. Our guide left us at this point. He needed to return to Agra. We felt he was displeased with us because we refused to be taken to yet another carpet weaving demonstration. Our driver, Sateesh, gave us an interesting and informative commentary after the guide left. The 4.5 hour journey through Rajasthan State to Jaipur, although not as eventful as the one 2 days earlier, provided us with some interesting sights - many very poor villages populated by hard working, happy people; a funeral procession in one village crossing 4 lanes of highway on foot carrying a stretcher with the soul to be cremated; 2 buses one a wreck and one new competing dangerously for highway space; cow patties drying on the roadside; miles of brick kilns; an impromptu protest with a highway blockade and some angry people [not sure why]; an motorcylce accident with many people gathered attempting to resolve the fault issue [India's version of ICBC]. Before arriving at the hotel our driver took us to a wholesale carpet weaving place and both couples bought beautiful Kashmiri carpets for 1/2 the price at previous carpet demos. Our hotel in Jaipur is elegant and exquisite. Dinner on this night of Diwali was at the Spice Court. We had to drive 45 min. through the streets of Jaipur to get there. That was the best driving experience so far. Jaipur at Diwali rivals Vegas for lights [gambling is illegal in India]. The traffic was so congested but we were surrounded by happy people who waved and smiled at the foreigners. Damon even blew kisses to some cute teenage girls. The dinner was excellent and Rajput entertainment complete with a puppet show, drummers and lady fire dancers. Although Rupee and Damon deny it, they got hammered. It was fun for all. Today has also been an amazing experience. First of all, Happy Birthday to me; I got to see an elephant pee! Not only that but an elephant ride too. A long time dream for me and one thing crossed off my bucket list. What an amazing birthday. Of course, as we are bouncing along on the back of Chumpur my camera card filled up. I had to change the card enroute. Fortunately, nothing went wrong so I will post a picture of Rupee and me on the elephant. We rode these majestic, royal beasts up the steep narrow road to the Amber Fort. It was built in the 1600s by an Hindu Maharaja -more incredible architecture and art. The place is massive and definitely a well fortified fort. Words cannot describe. The posted picture of D&N is in the mirror gallery of the winter part of the palace. Our guide the took us to the old part of Jaipur which is known as the Pink City of India and pink it is. The buildings are very old and very lovely. In the midst of the Raj's property is a 250 year old observatory. It seems almost like a huge children's playground but it completely devoted to the science of astronomy - quite remarkable. We continued then touring the Raj's palace and grounds that are currently used by the royal family. The history in this beautiful city is overwhelming. The Rajput people are lively and colourful. I'm so glad we added this city to our tour. Tonight our driver, Sateesh, is going to join us for dinner. He has been amazing in all ways.

Tomorrow morning we fly back to Delhi and then on to Varanasi, the Hindu Holy City, for a 3 day stay on the banks of the Ganges. All is well with us. Rupee is doing a great job of conversing with the locals. Lucky for me because I have laryngitis and can barely talk. Damon and Nicole are head over heels in love and very excited about their engaged status. Take care good friends. I'll stay in touch.

Taj Mahal

We left Delhi yesterday morning on the first day of Diwali driving throught streets that were eerily quiet after a night of festivities. As we left the city it began to bustle in the villages we passed through. The sights were mind boggling and very entertaining: camels pulling loads on the 4 lane highway, carts laden with garlands of yellow marigolds, people riding atop buses, 3 wheelers overloaded with a dozen people, even a herd of cows being led by a red turbaned shepherd. It took 4 hours to arrive in Agra our destination. As we stopped for breaks along the we were pestered by many. The most disconcerting time was when 2 children approached our van carrying a cobra and a boa. They held their pets up to the windows hoping for a few Rs. Damon locked the doors to keep the snakes out and hoped he wouldn't have nightmares. Our hotel, the Trident Hilton, is the most beautiful, tranquil oasis admist the squalor. It is 5 star plus. We didn't linger long however as our guide was anxious to take us to the Agra Fort built in 1565 by Shah Jehan's great grandfather. The Moguhls continues to amaze us with their intelligence, creativity and skill. The fort was magnificent. One tower, in view of the Taj, is where the Shah was imprisoned by his son. We soon moved onto the Taj Mahal. As we entered the east gate we were all completely overwhelmed with emotion, even Rupee who has seen its majesty before. Words and pictures cannot explain the beauty of the Taj. We were given a wonderful guided tour and then had time to wander. Rupee and I headed to the back near the river while Damon and Nicole strolled off in the other direction. It was at this time that Damon added to the incredibly romantic story of the Taj when he proposed to Nicole. She, of course, accepted. We joined them a few minutes later and spent some peaceful moments watching the sun set on this marble masterpiece. On returning to the hotel we were treated to a fireworks show put on by the hotel staff in honour of Diwali. Dinner that evening was a fabulous repast complete with champagne. CONGRATULATIONS DAMON & NICOLE! We're off this morning for another long drive, this time to Jaipur. I can hardly wait to celebrate my birthday tomorrow riding the elephant. NAMASTE!

New Delhi

What a great day again today. This time a tour of New Delhi - somewhat of a contrast to Old Delhi but many of the same special unique qualities that I'm sure are only in Delhi. It was a perpetual traffic jam to all the sites - Parliament Buildings, the tomb of the first Moghul ruler [a mini Taj], a minaret [tallest stone structure in the world], New Delhi Golf Course [big hit with guess who] and a Kashmiri weaving shop. We're off soon for dinner and the experience of Diwali. The air will be smoke filled and all will be in a party mood. I'm posting 2 pictures with this. One of the snake charmer from yesterday and one of celebrity Nicole. The Indian army at India Gate loved her big time. We leave early tomorrow for Agra so I will leave you with 'HAPPY DIWALI'.

Old Delhi

We began our day with Daresh, our guide, who assured us our driver had 3Gs [good horn, good brakes, good luck] necessary for survival in Delhi. Our journey took us on a 4 lane highway past the most amazing used book sale ever - each Sunday sellers line up for a mile along the highway to sell books. First stop was the Red Fort, a magnificent masterpiece built in 1600 by the Shah Jehan. Once inside after going through a metal detector and full pat down we marvelled at the amazing sandstone and marble structures. The carving was incredible, still preserved after centuries. We carried on to the next stop - Jamma Masjid, the largest mosque in Delhi. Getting there was an adventure in itself. To all those in Victoria who complain about the Colwood Crawl, MacKenzie Mess and 5 o'clock rush hour, think again. The traffic jam through narrow lanes was incredible. We finally got out and followed our guide on foot leaving the driver to make his way through. The mosque is huge and again as masterpiece of architecture and carving. We had to leave our shoes outside and Damon was required to wear a sarong as his shorts were inappropriate. Leaving the mosque was yet another traffic jam through many more narrow streets with every market imaginable [fish, chicken, Diwali wares, car parts]. Amazing! We then went to Gandhi's cremation site and memorial. As we got out of the van Damon heard the plaintive sound of a snake charmer's flute. Sure enough, there he was just waiting for us to take pictures and pay, of course. Damon survived the trauma of the cobra. Gandhi's site was reverent and peaceful - a unique and very moving experience for all of us. We returned to our hotel for what is now mid-day beer break. In the afternoon we hired a cab to take us to Connaught Place to browse, shop and look for a dinner restaurant in daylight. Back to the hotel for cocktails and then to hire a 3 wheeler to go back to the restaurant. It was a fabulous Indian meal and then a scary, hair raising 3 wheeler ride back to the hotel. Forgot to mention the beggars at night are more aggressive - Damon calls them scary men. We also saw our first rats - hmmm. It was quite a day and now we're off for a tour of New Delhi! I'll keep in touch

2nd Day in INDIA

We're about to begin our 2nd day in India after an amazing buffet breakfast at our hotel, The Connaught. Yesterday was so much fun, starting off with us hiring 2 three wheeler vehicles which took us for a one hour ride through Delhi's busy streets. What a thrill and a scare - horns beeping constantly, cars going in every direction, scooters darting in and out, people dashing across streets and the mayhem was glorious. Although our mission was to get beer and water our drivers first dropped us off at several shops hoping we would buy. They get a commission. We resisted and bought only water & beer [Kingfisher & very good]. After a mid-morning beer break at the hotel we set off on foot to experience the Delhi bazaars. Fascinating and mind boggling to say the least. We found a maze of shops [800] underground where Damon bought shoes, Nicole bought a purse and Rupee bought slippers. I resisted. Damon learned how to swear in Hindi to ward off a persistent beggar. Rupee got scammed into getting his shoes cleaned. It was an adventure more interesting than the bazaars of Mexico. Last night we wandered off to find a restaurant following the terrible directions given to us by the hotel. The traffic was a nightmare, the streets it only by car headlights and people everywhere. We never did find the restaurant but ended up at TGIF - for good old American food. So today we're off on a tour of Old Delhi. Stayed tuned

We have arrived in India!

Well, the trip of a lifetime has started. We're all safe and sound in New Delhi. It is, as Rupee said, a cacophony that assaults the senses. We just had a great breakfast and now we're off to explore.