Homeward bound

Two days ago we left Chandigarh on the evening train, a train packed with shoppers and businessmen. It was first class, clean, comfortable with an array of drinks, snacks & a meal provided. It was also a cellphone symphony concert. India is connected by mobile; everyone has a phone which is used constantly. The closer we got to Delhi the more the mobiles rang. One obnoxious gentleman seated directly behind me carried on a 3 hour conversation in a loud voice using a mix of English and Hindii. We now know his financial status, his health status and that he is not a person who scams or cheats anyone. We have decided the entire population is out to make a buck. Rupee, being the good Indian he is, has decided to join the ranks. He has asked me to inform all of you following the blog that he will take up a collection to cover my computer time fees. I'll bring home a bunch of 1 rupee coins to distribute. These may be used to contribute to Rupee's collection drive :)

We were happy to get back to Delhi. It is a vibrant, exciting city that provides something interesting and/or entertaining every moment of the day and night. Yesterday was the beginning of the celebration of Guru Nanak's birthday. Traffic around the Gudwara's [temples] is absolutely crazy. On our first day in Delhi we met a couple of 3 wheeler drivers who want to always take us somewhere. They were thrilled that we were back and graciously [for a fee, of course] took us to the bank, to a shop where they get a kickback, to the Janpath shopping area, to Pizza Hut [where we had the best pizzas ever], back to the hotel and even offered to take us to a bootlegger. That was because all the liquour stores in Delhi are closed for G.N.'s birthday. Damon was not happy about it being a dry day. We declined the bootlegger and went to the hotel bar for happy hour instead. Yesterday we also found the elusive Emporium which we kept hearing about every time we were in Delhi. It is a government sanctioned cottage craft shop that is spread out over 6 floors. What an amazing selection - wish we'd found it sooner. Naturally we shopped but had to restrain ourselves as all suitcases including the extra ones we bought here are full. For 3 hours in the afternoon we had the use of a taxi. We had complained to the hotel travel services about our directionally challenged, very bad driver we had hired for our Jalandhar trip. To appease angry guests the travel director provided us with a taxi for 3 hours yesterday and another 3 hours today. We used the services to take us to a residential part of the city to visit Rupee's cousin, Surindher. An interesting story Rupee's family will be wanting to hear when we get back. Dinner last night was on the recommendation of Mamohan, our 3 wheeler buddy. Castle 9 provided the best Indian food we have had during the entire trip. We walked into the building to the sounds of Kenny Rogers, The Gambler. The music all evening was great - Bryan Adams, Bee Gees etc. Lots of old tunes that we all enjoyed.

So this morning we had our last breakfast in Delhi at the Connaught. We are hoping to find Delhi's Hard Rock Cafe for lunch this afternoon and take in a few more sights. It is going to be a long day as our flight does not leave until 23:15. Then it is a 30 hour journey back to Victoria. We hope to catch the 3:00 ferry on Saturday, with luck maybe the 1:00. I hope you have all enjoyed following the blog. It has been fun for me to share our adventures with you. I'll be on a mission today to get more 1 rupee coins for that collection. Our trip has been memorable. Words cannot describe the impact it has had on all of us. Take care and we'll see you soon.

Chandigarh-last day

Tonight we catch the Shatabdi Express back to Delhi. Chandigarh has been another enjoyable experience. Each place we have visited has its own special characteristics. This city is the result of Pandit Nehru's dream - a city to symbolize India's freedom in 1947. The entire city was planned by one architect and is divided into sectors. The streets are wide & tree-lined. For the first time since arriving in India we have seen sidewalks made of interlocking pavers, parking stalls and lane line paintings. Although it is busy and noisy everything is organized and clean - there is not the chaos we have experienced in other cities. The buildings are modern and the tent cities few and far between. We have had a wonderful time shopping at a huge bazaar that reflects our western shopping plazas. Many of the stores carry name brands and the prices asked are similar to what we would pay at home but the selection of goods is huge and styles are very modern. Even the problem with beggars is minimal. Yesterday we hired a car and driver for a 4 hour tour of the city. We took in a beautiful rose garden, an incredible rock garden, saw the famour Panjab University and meandered along the shores of a man-made lake. It was relaxing, pleasant time on a warm, sunny day. Chandigarh is also the capital of the states of Haryana and Punjab so there are many government offices and a high court. The city planners have made a good effort catering to families and young people. We were told in Jalandhar that Chandigarh is the go-to place for the young and upwardly mobile in India. We can certainly understand why that is after spending a couple of days here. Yesterday we also attempted to visit the Chandigarh Golf Course where the Indian Amateur sponsored by LG is playing. Rupee and Damon were allowed to visit the proshop but Nicole and I had to stay in the car. So even with all the modern ammenities there is still a huge male dominance factor. After all that the proshop was closed so the men are going back this morning while Nicole and I deal with the computer - blog postings and email. D & N had a craving yesterday for pizza after almost 3 weeks of Indian food. Speaking of Indian food - Damon has gorged himself so much that he now resembles Buddha - picture posted is proof. Our driver took us to Domino's and we had a great lunch - see picture. Not only did we find Dominos but we also found a liquor store that sold Australian wine. Of course, we had to sample that. Wine has not been easy to acquire in this country - of drinks of choice have been beer, Barcardi Breezers & scotch. Last night at dinner we met a delightful Indian couple from England who are visiting family here. We're meeting them in the bar lounge this afternoon before all of us travel back to Delhi by rail. Before meeting our new friends we'll probably take a bicycle rickshaw ride just for the fun of it. Our time in India is quickly coming to an end. We can't believe how fast the time has gone by. The memories will last forever.

Chandigarh

We arrived in Chandigarh yesterday. Today is November 11 - a day of remembrance. We are remembering and feeling blessed for the freedoms we have. Also a special Happy Birthday wish to Grandma. We are thinking of her today and send our best love. My computer hour is quickly running out so I will post more about this beautiful city later. We're off on a 4 hour city tour. The guys are looking forward to visiting the Chadigarh Golf Course on the tour. The Indian Amateur starts there today.

Jandiala & Jalundhar

I'm a bit behind with the blog postings because the computer access at our hotel was sporadic at best. The visit to Rupee's homeland was delightful. We made a second visit to Jandiala and The Pallan Cloth House. Mukhan Lal was a gracious host who was very happy we shopped well in his store. We have purchased lots of souvenirs from Jandiala. On our way to his home for tea we were verbally accosted by a couple eunuchs - very annoying, arrogant people. Generally they get away with hassling shopkeepers and village residents who most often have to pay them to go away. On this occasion, however, Rupee's cousin yelled right back at them and sent them on their way with nothing. It took awhile for them to leave - they just stood outside Mukhan's door and yelled their obsenities. It was another experience to add to our list of unforgettables. On our way out of the village that day we stopped to take photos of the school R's father attended as a young boy in India some 80 years ago. It still operates as a school. Later that evening we went to an amazing restaurant in Jalandhar with 2 gentleman we met at our hotel. Haveli is more than a restaurant. It is like a them park showcasing the traditional Punjabi life style. The place is decked out in lights, has life size statues representing various aspects of village life and real people demonstrating such things as weaving, goldsmithing, leather crafts, etc. There were jugglers, magicians, monkey acts and even a camel ride. Of course, we rode the camel. It was hilarious and so much fun. After meandering through the replica of a Punjabi village we enjoyed a traditional Punjabi meal at the beautiful restaurant. We were seated at low, intricately carved tables and served a huge feast in small stainless steel bowls that were positioned on a steel tray. The male waiters were dressed in traditional costume. There was music, dancing and lively entertainment throughout the evening. All this for $30 - that is for all six of us @ $5 each. What an incredible experience. Our last day in Jalandhar was spent with Amar Singh and his family. They fed us again like royalty and took us to Jalandhar's Hindu Temple. It is an ornate temple coupled with a theme park atmosphere. There are bigger than life, colourful statues of all the Hindu Gods. At one point we walked into what appeared to be the open mouth of a very large beast. It was dark and there was a waterway we had to walk through. So off we went with bare feet and pants rolled up trusting our Indian family to lead the way. Apparently we were given good luck by doing this. Again, another memorable experience. Many people stared at us at the temple; they were curious and fascinated. Several young children wanted their picture taken with Damon and Nicole. The family is so proud of their faith and were honoured that we could share it with them. When it was time to leave that day the goodbyes were emotional for everyone. Amar Singh and all his family feels blessed to have had us visit but we are the ones truly blessed. These people are so loving and accepting. We will have a place in our hearts for them forever. I'll attempt to post pictures today but the computer I'm using is not cooperating.

Lidhran

Nov. 7 was a day for verification of historical data. For 65 years Rupee has believed he was born in the Jandiala village of Jalandhar. Actually, he spent his toddler years in his grandfather's home in Jandiala but was born elsewhere. Today we found out that he was actually born in the Lidhran village of Jalandhar. According to Indian tradition the female returns to her parents' home to give birth. Rupee's mother was from Lidhran and that is where she went when Rupee was due. We visited this quiet village not far from our hotel and saw the exterior of Shakuntla's family home and the courtyard where she and Nand Lal were married almost 67 years ago. The building is in disarray but still standing. The amazing event here in this small town was that Rupee was recognized by an old Sikh gentleman, Jaspir Singh, who remembered the day Kunti's son was born. Jaspir is now 87 years old. Remarkable to come so far and make such connections. R's cousin also took us to the family farm. Most of the land was expropriated by the government in 1990 for installation of power lines. The family received a pittance. There is. however, still some farm land left and it produces potatoes, rice and wheat for the family consumption and for sale. Ashok is a successful businessman who owns 5 tractor/trolley units which he hires out for farm service. R's uncle, Amar Singh, also 87 rides each morning several km. from the family home to the farm to pick up the milk for the day. This ride is on a bicycle along rutted dirt roads, across 4 lanes of a busy highway and along paved village roads. Today there is a picture of this remarkable gentleman on his bicycle. After visiting R's real birth place and the farm we returned to Amar Singh's home for a sumptuous repast - delicious Indian food. We were again treated like royalty. Two of the male family members accompanied us to a goldsmith's shop where Damon bought a gold ring. It has been another emotional and terrific day in India.

Amritsar

Nov. 6 was our day to travel to Amritsar [holy pool of milk and honey]. This sacred city is 84km from Jalandhar City. That doesn't seem like a long distance but the ride seemed to go on forever. Our terrible, eratic and inconsistent driver gave us a thrill ride for sure, although I would described it as a white knuckle ride for a couple of hours. He had told us he knew the city but we needed to stop for directions at least 3 times. At last we found a government parkade, left the driver and hoofed it the rest of the way. The Golden Temple is truly golden - 24 karat golden. It is lovely in its holiness. We felt serene and relaxed in spite of the crowds. After our vist to the temple we took a 3 wheeler to the Jallianwala Bagh where 2300 Indians we massacred by the British in 1919. Countries from all over the world have contributed money to make this area a memorial park. The bullet holes are still there, as is the well where many people jumped to their deaths in an attempt to escape General Dyer's gunfire. It was another quest to find our way out of Amritsar back to the highway leading to Jalandhar. Once back at the hotel we ditched our ditzy driver and called Rupee's cousin, Ashok. He came to the hotel in his small Suzuki Maruti to pick us up and take us to the family home, atbout 25 min. away. It was a royal welcome for us. Everyone from R's 87 year old uncle and his to wife to the newest family member a 12 day old baby made us feel very special. Drinks, snacks and an evening meal were laid out for us and the evening was full of laughter, stories and family gossip. Amar Singh feels blessed that we chose to visit him before he dies. It is really us who have been blessed by this humble, caring and generous people. Pictures today will be of the Golden Temple and the family of Amar Singh, Rupee's Mother's brother..

Jandiala

Nov. 5 again - after we checked in. There was a bit of a problem with check in as the hotel had our reservations starting 2 days earlier. Fortunately, we were able to get the issue cleared up quickly. We then called our driver to take us to Jandiala, Rupee's birthplace. Our driver had assured us in Delhi that he was very familiar with the Punjab and knew his way around - not so!
After stopping serveral times for directions R finally got out of the vehicle and asked a group of ladies waiting at a bus stop. Luck would have it that they were from the village. Two of the eldest ladies offered to show us the way if we would give them a ride. They were in their glory riding in a fancy Toyota with a group of lost Canadians. They took us right to the Pallan Cloth House. Our driver went as fas as possible through the narrow streets and we walked the rest of the way on foot. The distant cousin who owns the cloth house was delighted to have family visit. We made some purchases and then he showed us around the village. It was such an emotional time for us to be in the place where R was born and the place where his grandfather had built a towering mansion of a home 80 years ago. The home still stands tall in all its grandeur but is unfortunately unhabitated. The cousin tells us that people want something more modern in these days. We were able to wander through the rooms, saw the stairs R fell down as a child and where Grandma used to cook the family meals. I'm amazed R survived the fall. The stairs are incredibly narrow, very deep, very steep and curve in a semi-spiral. We all knew that but it has to be seen to be believed. On our village tour we met several excited Pallans who were so happy we were there. There are 50 Pallan families still in the village and many want to meet us so plan to go back sometime in the next couple of days. Mukan Lal showed us his home and the well/water pump that R's grandfather donated to the village 80 years ago - still functioning. After a confusing drive back to the hotel we have decided that our driver is probably the worst in India. In the evening R called his cousin Ashok who came with his son to visit in the hotel room. It was an evening of laughs and family gossip. We will meet all the rest of Ashok's family On Thursday. His father is Grandma's elder brother. Thursday is also our day to visit the Golden Temple in Amritsar. More on that later.

Shatabadi Express

Early Nov. 5 we checked out of our hotel and took a short drive but long in time to the Delhi Railway station. Long in time because even at 6 am there is traffic chaos, particularly at the train station. There did not seem to be any rhyme or reason but eventually our guide got us into the station. We then lugged our luggage for what seemed blocks and blocks and down 3 long flights of stairs only to find there was a last minute change to the arrival platform. So it was back up the 3 flights and then more block walking to platform 1. However, we were at the wrong end of the train - back to block walking - Indian trains are reallllly long. We finally got on board and were ready to go. Thank heavens for a trusty guide who stayed with us until departure. The train was first class/air conditioned so the 5 hour ride was very pleasant. The sighes along the way were, as always, unique and interesting. Life in India happens right along side the tracks in full view of passers by, that includes morning abulations of every kind imaginable. This express train is precisely on schedule. When we arrived in Jalandhar we had 2 minutes to get off. We had hired a car & driver at the Delhi hotel and there he was waiting for us. There was a bit of confusion in the parking lot because the vehicles were so crammed that we couldn't get in. That gave a very annoying beggar child the opportunity to swarm D&N. He was touching their feet, scrambling all around and whining - usually they are not that aggressive. Finally, R swore at him and give him a coin. It was a short trip to our hotel - Maya Palace. It is really nice so we're looking forward to spending 5 days in very comfortable surroundings.
By the way, India is celebrating Barack Obama's win and the press media loved the story of the the Canadian phoning Sarah Palin pretending to be the French President.

Delhi again

Well our trip back to Delhi was interesting. The driver we had for the airport transfer was quite apprehensive, maybe even nervous. That does not work well in India - aggression and confidence are much better. We eventually arrived at the airport - what a confusing, chaotic mess. The building was like a hanger, the crowds were dense, the acoustics terrible, and the technology minimal. Fortunately, our attentive guide stayed until he was sure we had cleared security. Again confusion & crowds. The flight was delayed by 2 hours so we spent a considerable period of time surrounded by noisy, smelly people speaking a miriad of languages. Our flight was only 200 min. but when we landed it was a 25 min. taxi ride to meet a bus and then a 15 min. ride to the domestic terminal. Backage pickup went smoothly and we were greeted by our friendly Bestway Tour guide for the hotel transfer. Well, traffic in Delhi being what is meant the ride from the airport to the hotel took longer than the flight. Our guide graciously agreed to stop at a shop for beer and snacks as it was 8:00 and we were in need. Rupee went to the get the treats with the guides while C, D & N stayed with the driver. We were parked in the middle of a side street which did not please the policeman who waved a big stick at us and told us to move on. At least, it wasn't a rifle. Then R & the guide had to phone the driver to find out where we were. Interesting - we could communicate by cellphone but there are no parking meters. If you need to leave your vehicle parked you must hire someone to stand guard. Back at the Connaught we felt luxurious. After snacks it was back to TGI Fridays as we needed a break from Indian food. Great food - very confusing service from the waiters but we didn't care because we were famished. After a great sleep and nourshing breakfast we took a 3 wheeler to the Delhi Emporium which we had discovered on our last night here. We did a little shopping, took another 3 wheeler to the HSBC bank to withdraw money. The regular ATM machines in India are not very reliable. I actually tried to exchange CAN$ at the bank and they wouldn't do it - just sent me to a street vendor authorized by Thomas Cook. It is a little kiosk tucked in the wall between shops. One needs to look carefully for the sign. Both couples needed to purchase an extra suitcase as we have done considerable shopping. We were successful doing that in JanPath shopping area. This is a place we'll return to on our last day here - great shopping. Delhi today is quite different from Delhi during Diwali. It is still busy, noisy and congested but is much cleaner and there seem to be fewer beggars. None of us expected this difference. Mid-afternoon and time for a beer break. I know it seems like we're drinking a lot of beer but it is hot, the air is smoggy and selection of beverages is limited. Last visit we sat by our room's picture window and watched the antics on the street below. This visit we are on the back side of the building with a view of an excavation hole. You may think the view would not be pleasant, however, it is more than interesting. The excavation hole is of a size that would accomadate several a building of many stories - not much different from the downtown Victoria construction sites. At the moment, the foundation is being poured - by hand. There is one cement mixer, several men making the cement and a half dozen sari clad women, wearing flip flops, moving pans of cement on their heads to the foundation area. There are no trucks or heavy machinery in sight. Another part of the foundation seems to be of 24x18 concrete blocks being set into cement. The blocks are up at the street level and are moved, one at time, to the excavation hole by young men who carry each block on their heads. The young barefooted children of the workers are playing happily in the construction area. It is a WCB nightmare in the making. Oh yes, we also watched the antics of several rats on the perimeter of the site. While at our hotel we made arrangements for a car & driver while we're in Jalundhar. We leave for Rupee's birth city early tomorrow morning and travel by train. I'm sure there will be more interesting stories to post about the next mode of travel. Pictures today - the Delhi skyline with excavation hole in foreground & sari cement ladies.

Back to Delhi

We had a quiet last evening in Varanasi - no bugs at dinner tonight. R, C, & N ate sparingly as our tummies aren't too happy at the moment - nothing that a little Immodium won't cure. D&N's air conditioner in the upgraded room was awful so they didn't sleep well. R&C awoke at 6:30 to the daily ringing of the bells to honour sunrise. It sounded like all the teachers in the Sooke District were ringing old fashioned school bells to mark the end of recess. Oh well, we had a good sleep so we opened the drapes and watched the sunrise over the Ganges - very beautiful. After breakfast we went to visit the bead shop lady who has been so sweet and friendly to us while we're here. She pleaded with us to come back and bring all our friends. It is really hot today - the hottest yet. We had planned a long walk on the ghats but gave up as we were dripping in minutes. I did managed to take a picture using the zoom of an ash smeared sadhu without having to pay him any money. Damon was keen to get one before we left. Can't load it right now as the USB cord is in the luggage. We checked out of our rooms to await the airport pickup only to find out all flights are delayed by one hour. D&N are playing cards in the lobby, R is snoozing and I'm blogging. Hopefully, we'll get back to Delhi without much delay. The time here has been interesting and very unique but we're ready to move on.

Varanasi - Day 3

Last night we ate dinner again at the rooftop restaurant. Although we have asked many about other places to eat this one is always recommended first. It would seem our other choices are road side stands and hole in the alley eateries. Lots of last night - quite annoying to us but the locals pay no attention. Varanasi is a truly unique and remarkable city, one of contrasts, [modern & very old, religious & secular, beautiful & ugly, people of every religion and from many countries]. The sights we see continue to entertain, amuse and put us in awe. This morning after meeting our guide we caught the 'running of the bulls Varanasi style' in the street on the way to our car - 2 bulls very annoyed with each other. We then got to view a bullfight Varnasi style right in the crowded street beside the alley to our hotel. Exciting way to start the morning. We were driven to the outskirts of the city to a place called Sarnath. It is where Buddha preached his first sermon in the 6th century BC. We found it to be a tranquil oasis away from the city bustle. We really got a feeling of the antiquity of the area. There are several monuments, a temple and an amazing musuem. As you enter the museum you are greeted by a 2300 year old carved sandstone monument of 4 lions and a 24 spoked wheel - the lion symbol of India appears on all money and official documents, the spoked wheel centers the flag. Damon now understands the meaning of the Indian flag which he has tatooed on his chest. Our guide then took us to a glass bead manufacturing center[the one Catherine recommended]. As today was Sunday we couldn't see the beads being made - most are made in village homes but some are done on sight. Sunday didn't stop the business from selling to us. We all had a wonderful shopping experience buying souvenirs. Next stop was another silk weaving cooperative, also Muslim operated. This time there was little precious and we each made a purchase. As we left this establishment we encountered a monkey with a handgun. Yikes! It was tame, the gun was fake and the owner wanted money, of course, for a picture. I wanted to pay Rs20 [50 cents] but guess who said 'no'. After returning to our hotel we walked through street leading to the main ghat. It was busy but not as congested as it has been on other days. Sunday is a day of rest for some. We found a vegetarian restaurant for a mid-afternoon snack and then braved a bicycle rickshaw ride. It was fun but very short because our drivers were prohibted from getting near the main ghat - not sure why. We payed Rs20 for a 1/2 block ride - worth the picture. Our time in Varanasi is nearing the end so Rupee and Damon decided they needed to atone for their sins and get some good luck. We found a riverside spot that wasn't too filled with garbage and they each stuck a big toe in the Ganga. Again it was worth it for the picture. I'm not sure how many sins are now atoned or how much luck they will get with only a big toe but they couldn't let Ajmare outdo them. Nicole & I opted for the role of photographer. For the last 3 days we have marveled at the transportation in this city. There are very few modern vehicles. Mainly the people use push carts, bicycle rickshaws, some 3 wheelers and motor scooters. We have seen a smattering of buses and large trucks. Most of the cars are tourist designated. It is astounding to see how the bicycles are used. Today one was pulling a wagon loaded with about 8 sacks of potatoes at least 60 pounds each; atop the sacks was a man talking on a cellphone. [see what I mean about contrasts] Bicylces are used to deliver milk in old fashioned cans and gasoline in red metal cans that look like they came from the era of the British. We saw one scrawny man wheeling a bike that was balanced with 2 steel posts, the type used for light standards. He actually managed to weave through the maze of traffic without hitting anyone or anything. For our last night we were fortunate to be able to upgrade to a deluxe room. Each room has a view of the Ganges. Right outside D&N's window is a graceful tree that is home to many monkeys. Monkey watching is on the agenda until we leave. These monkeys then fly to the flat roof top outside our window so we can do the monkey watching from either room. Our deluxe rooms are somewhat nicer than the standards we've used for the last 2 nights. We can actually walk around the bed, there is a refrigerator which works when the electricity is on, 4 towels instead of 2, and some small bottles of bath products. Rupee has had a nap already and said the bed is way more comfortable, not a board like we've endured since arriving. This city is likely the essence of India and we are excited to have had the experience. Nicole & I have decided we must be in Indian mode as we felt comfortable walking up the narrow street this afternoon without the men nearby. Tomorrow we return to Delhi for 2 nights before heading to the Punjab. We actually think it will be nice to get back to a pace that isn't so hectic. Ten days ago when we landed in Delhi we never would have believed we would be saying that there was someplace more chaotic.

Varanasi - Day 2 & 3

Damon discovered our hotel has a spa in the basement - not quite what we think of as spas but he went for a massage anyway and thought it was great. He was very relaxed by the time our guide and driver arrived for the afternoon tour yesterday. Being relaxed while driving through Varanasi is important. This place has the craziest transportation system yet - the ultimate chaos hardly describes it. I took this photo is of a family on a motor scooter directly in front of our van. Carseats for children is not part of Indian regulations. Our tour today took us to Benares Hindu University. It is huge, has a high reputation and is situated in lovely, peaceful surroundings - very different from the ghats. We visited a couple of remarkable temples and we then taken to the Muslim area for a demonstration of silk weaving. This a traditional Muslim skill passed on in families through the centuries. The silk is woven by hand right in the homes of the Muslim families. It was remarkable to see. Of course, with any demonstrations we have received we are welcomed with refreshments and a presentation of the product. This sales pitch was typically taking a very long time. We've finally figured out that we just need to be abrupt and tell them we're not interested. In the evening we wnet to the main ghat to watch a ceremony honouring the Hindu gods. It was colourful, noisy and well orchestrated - lots of music, fire, clapping, chanting and ritual. The bugs were awful tonight but the repellant seems to be keeping us from being bitten. Tomorrow we're off to Sarnath, where Buddha preached his first sermon. More to come on that.

Varanasi - Day 2

First of all - I was wrong. There is a TV and that is a good thing because none of us felt comfortable venturing too far outdoors once it was dark. D&N watched the Halloween Simpsons last night. By the way, Happy Halloween to all. We all went to bed early last night as we needed to meet our guide in the lobby at 5:30am for our sunrise cruise on the Ganges. This morning I said, "Well, it is one step up from camping." and Damon wasn't sure he agreed. As we walked through the lanes and alleys it was bustling even at that time of the morning. The sights are beyond anything one could imagine. Our guide, Chancha, was well informed and quite funny. There are 7km of ghat [steps] along the river. Our hotel overlooks the main ghat where most of the ritual bathing occurs. All the ghats are submerged during the monsoon. As the monsoon season just ended there is thick, gooey mud in many places. Our rower took us first to the cremation ghat where cremations occur 24/7. It is an interesting process. All along the river people were bathing, swimming or taking a sacred plunge into the holy waters. No one is concerned about the pollution and believe me it is POLLUTED! The dobhi wallahs [washermen] were hard at work doing the daily laundry in the river [look for a picture]. After the cruise our guide took us to Lord Krishan's temple - security everywhere because not only is it a Hindu temple but it is also a Muslim mosque. There is a definite awareness about terrorism in this country. Armed guards all along the narrow lanes watching everyone with ghigh level scrutiny. We had to deposit cameras, bags, cellphones etc. at a shop for safe keeping and then go through security gates, as tight as airports, complete with male and female pat downs. After all that, the viewing balcony was closedand we were turned away - India it is. The shopkeeper didn't charge for guarding our bags but we had to pay the courtesy of looking at his wares. I bought a couple of silk scarves. So we've done all that and it is only 7:30. Back to our rooms to shower. Jalem is going to love to hear our stories about the plumbing. We had breakfast on our hotel's rooftop restaurant. By the way, our guide told us we have the best hotel on the river - hmmmm! Glad we aren't staying in a different one. After breakfast we wandered down to the cremation ghat for a closer look and actually found our way back through the maze of alleys to the main street. I found a fabulous bead shop with an owner who did not pressure me to buy anything. Of course, I bought lots. She was delightful and I'm going back laterto buy more. We're not quite sure what to do with ourselves until 2:00 when our guide returns for a tour of the city. This place is definitely an attraction that one should see in India but certainly not a place where there is a lot to do. Hopefully, we'll get a better sense of the city during our tour. There is a photo of our hotel from the riverside so you get a sense of how high up from the river we are [look for the red flags]. Steps are the only access and every step has a depth at least 1/2 as much again as our steps. We're all going to have tight butts and strong quads by the time we leave. I would love to take lots of pictures here but am very careful doing so for several reasons: it could be disrespectful in some instances, dangerous in others and costly in others. There are many fake sadhus who demand payment. Our guide said a true sadhu would never ask for money. Trouble is you can't tell the real from the fake. It really is a photographer's dream wandering through this city; unfortunately a dream it will remain. The people here have a very difficult life but seem very happy. We're off to have lunch on the rooftop. It is a beautiful, hot day and the sights will keep us entertained until we meet our guide. I've had trouble posting photos as blogger takes forever and then the power goes out. A generator does kick in but internet access is blocked until the real power is back up and running.

Varanasi

We had a great last night in Jaipur. Our driver took us to a nearby restaurant, The Royal Court, and joined us for dinner. Rajasthani entertainment was on the menu too - drumming & dancing. Nicole was cajolled into joining the 2 dancing girls and she did a great job. Damon couldn't resist the beat so he joined in too. It was fabulous entertainment. I'll post a picture later as I left my USB cord in the room. We really enjoyed spending some time with Sateesh, our driver, and we know he enjoyed our company too. It was an early rise to catch a flight to Delhi @ 9:00. We then had our very own private security transfer on the tarmac from one plane to the other when we made our Varanasi connection. Lots of security at the airports - good thing. We were in Varanasi [Benares] by noon. Our guide was waiting to transfer us to the hotel. Now it gets interesting. Since arriving in India we have pretty much done the tourist thing and driven past the real life of India. Now we are immersed. The 45 min. drive from the airport was the craziest yet. There are fewer cars and many more scooters and bicycle rickshaws in this city of 2.5 million. Also the roads are only 2 lanes but that doesn't stop the drivers from making them into 4 lanes. It was a hair raising ride. The closer we got to the hotel the more narrow the streets became. We eventually arrived at our destination but it was nowhere to be seen. That is because we had to go on foot through several very narrow, very smelly, very creepy alleyways. Eventually we arrived at Rashmi Guest House, also known as the 'Palace on the River". Well, in the sense of height I guess it could be called a palace. We walked up way too many steps well above the Ganges just to get to the lobby. Here we were greeted with rose garlands that smell as lovely as the leis in Maui. We signed in the very old fashioned was by hand, not computer. Meanwhile the luggage coolies had carried our 2 heavy suitcases on their heads through the alleys - glad we left 2 bags at the hotel in Delhi. Next our rooms - OMG not quite the Trident Hilton. We were very disappointed to not be assigned the river view rooms we had requested. Oh well, we are in India. The rooms are postage stamp size and the bathroom is worthy of a photograph. As I looked in the bathroom I asked Rupee what room D & N were in. Damon answered 'Right next door, Mom.' Our bathrooms share a wall that has a ventillation screen at the top. I guess we have to schedule Rupee and Damon to do their business at the same time. At least the rooms are clean. Next problem - bank machines. Any that we have found in the last few days have no money. That is not because of the world credit crunch but because of Diwali. I guess a lot of money is spent on this festival. We wandered through very congested streets trying to find someplace that would dispense money. Damon finally was able to withdraw some on his Visa. Off to the ghats we go, each with a large bottle of water as it is 30+ and very muggy. The sights are something to behold and we've only had a peek. We did wander close to the cremation ghat but turned back because our shoes were sinking in the mud. After being pestered by the boatmen and people claiming to be raising money to cremate the homeless we headed back to the hotel. Again many more steps up from the river to the lobby, one floor up to our rooms and 4 floors up to the rooftop restaurant. We had delicious beer and pakorahs for a snack while sitting on the deck observing the river and riverside surroundings - kids flying kites, a cricket game on the river edge, the cricket ball landing in the river, one of the players not hesitating to go in to get it, monkeys cavorting on the rooftops within almost touching distance and parrots squawking in the treetops right at eye level. It is going to be a very interesting 3 days, to say the least. Tomorrow morning we meet our guide at 5:45 for a sunrise boat cruise - sunrise is the time Hindus take a traditional dip in the holy river Ganges. Later in the day we have a city tour. I'm sure we'll learn more about this interesting and very unique place. Right now D & N are on the other computer checking messages and Rupee went back to the room to watch TV, except there is no TV in our hotel. In fact, the air conditioner only comes on after 3:00 when there is electricity. We're so glad you are following our adventures and really appreciate the posted commments. Watch for the photo of D&N learning to dance Rajasthani.

Jaipur

After leaving Agra yesterday we drove to Fatehpur Sikiri, an abandoned city not far from Agra. It was built in the early 1600's by Akbhar, the Great [Shah Jehan's grandfather]. Rupee has decided to change his name to Akbhar as this Moghul king is his new hero. The city is another amazing example of engineering and artistry. The people of this time had even figured out how to air condition and heat the palace rooms using water flowing through hollow, but very thick walls and floors. It was only used by the Moghul for 7 years and then abandoned because the water was too salty. We observed monkeys, frog and even bats [Damon didn't like those]. At the shops I purchased beautiful beads with the help of Rupee bartering for me. Our guide left us at this point. He needed to return to Agra. We felt he was displeased with us because we refused to be taken to yet another carpet weaving demonstration. Our driver, Sateesh, gave us an interesting and informative commentary after the guide left. The 4.5 hour journey through Rajasthan State to Jaipur, although not as eventful as the one 2 days earlier, provided us with some interesting sights - many very poor villages populated by hard working, happy people; a funeral procession in one village crossing 4 lanes of highway on foot carrying a stretcher with the soul to be cremated; 2 buses one a wreck and one new competing dangerously for highway space; cow patties drying on the roadside; miles of brick kilns; an impromptu protest with a highway blockade and some angry people [not sure why]; an motorcylce accident with many people gathered attempting to resolve the fault issue [India's version of ICBC]. Before arriving at the hotel our driver took us to a wholesale carpet weaving place and both couples bought beautiful Kashmiri carpets for 1/2 the price at previous carpet demos. Our hotel in Jaipur is elegant and exquisite. Dinner on this night of Diwali was at the Spice Court. We had to drive 45 min. through the streets of Jaipur to get there. That was the best driving experience so far. Jaipur at Diwali rivals Vegas for lights [gambling is illegal in India]. The traffic was so congested but we were surrounded by happy people who waved and smiled at the foreigners. Damon even blew kisses to some cute teenage girls. The dinner was excellent and Rajput entertainment complete with a puppet show, drummers and lady fire dancers. Although Rupee and Damon deny it, they got hammered. It was fun for all. Today has also been an amazing experience. First of all, Happy Birthday to me; I got to see an elephant pee! Not only that but an elephant ride too. A long time dream for me and one thing crossed off my bucket list. What an amazing birthday. Of course, as we are bouncing along on the back of Chumpur my camera card filled up. I had to change the card enroute. Fortunately, nothing went wrong so I will post a picture of Rupee and me on the elephant. We rode these majestic, royal beasts up the steep narrow road to the Amber Fort. It was built in the 1600s by an Hindu Maharaja -more incredible architecture and art. The place is massive and definitely a well fortified fort. Words cannot describe. The posted picture of D&N is in the mirror gallery of the winter part of the palace. Our guide the took us to the old part of Jaipur which is known as the Pink City of India and pink it is. The buildings are very old and very lovely. In the midst of the Raj's property is a 250 year old observatory. It seems almost like a huge children's playground but it completely devoted to the science of astronomy - quite remarkable. We continued then touring the Raj's palace and grounds that are currently used by the royal family. The history in this beautiful city is overwhelming. The Rajput people are lively and colourful. I'm so glad we added this city to our tour. Tonight our driver, Sateesh, is going to join us for dinner. He has been amazing in all ways.

Tomorrow morning we fly back to Delhi and then on to Varanasi, the Hindu Holy City, for a 3 day stay on the banks of the Ganges. All is well with us. Rupee is doing a great job of conversing with the locals. Lucky for me because I have laryngitis and can barely talk. Damon and Nicole are head over heels in love and very excited about their engaged status. Take care good friends. I'll stay in touch.

Taj Mahal

We left Delhi yesterday morning on the first day of Diwali driving throught streets that were eerily quiet after a night of festivities. As we left the city it began to bustle in the villages we passed through. The sights were mind boggling and very entertaining: camels pulling loads on the 4 lane highway, carts laden with garlands of yellow marigolds, people riding atop buses, 3 wheelers overloaded with a dozen people, even a herd of cows being led by a red turbaned shepherd. It took 4 hours to arrive in Agra our destination. As we stopped for breaks along the we were pestered by many. The most disconcerting time was when 2 children approached our van carrying a cobra and a boa. They held their pets up to the windows hoping for a few Rs. Damon locked the doors to keep the snakes out and hoped he wouldn't have nightmares. Our hotel, the Trident Hilton, is the most beautiful, tranquil oasis admist the squalor. It is 5 star plus. We didn't linger long however as our guide was anxious to take us to the Agra Fort built in 1565 by Shah Jehan's great grandfather. The Moguhls continues to amaze us with their intelligence, creativity and skill. The fort was magnificent. One tower, in view of the Taj, is where the Shah was imprisoned by his son. We soon moved onto the Taj Mahal. As we entered the east gate we were all completely overwhelmed with emotion, even Rupee who has seen its majesty before. Words and pictures cannot explain the beauty of the Taj. We were given a wonderful guided tour and then had time to wander. Rupee and I headed to the back near the river while Damon and Nicole strolled off in the other direction. It was at this time that Damon added to the incredibly romantic story of the Taj when he proposed to Nicole. She, of course, accepted. We joined them a few minutes later and spent some peaceful moments watching the sun set on this marble masterpiece. On returning to the hotel we were treated to a fireworks show put on by the hotel staff in honour of Diwali. Dinner that evening was a fabulous repast complete with champagne. CONGRATULATIONS DAMON & NICOLE! We're off this morning for another long drive, this time to Jaipur. I can hardly wait to celebrate my birthday tomorrow riding the elephant. NAMASTE!

New Delhi

What a great day again today. This time a tour of New Delhi - somewhat of a contrast to Old Delhi but many of the same special unique qualities that I'm sure are only in Delhi. It was a perpetual traffic jam to all the sites - Parliament Buildings, the tomb of the first Moghul ruler [a mini Taj], a minaret [tallest stone structure in the world], New Delhi Golf Course [big hit with guess who] and a Kashmiri weaving shop. We're off soon for dinner and the experience of Diwali. The air will be smoke filled and all will be in a party mood. I'm posting 2 pictures with this. One of the snake charmer from yesterday and one of celebrity Nicole. The Indian army at India Gate loved her big time. We leave early tomorrow for Agra so I will leave you with 'HAPPY DIWALI'.

Old Delhi

We began our day with Daresh, our guide, who assured us our driver had 3Gs [good horn, good brakes, good luck] necessary for survival in Delhi. Our journey took us on a 4 lane highway past the most amazing used book sale ever - each Sunday sellers line up for a mile along the highway to sell books. First stop was the Red Fort, a magnificent masterpiece built in 1600 by the Shah Jehan. Once inside after going through a metal detector and full pat down we marvelled at the amazing sandstone and marble structures. The carving was incredible, still preserved after centuries. We carried on to the next stop - Jamma Masjid, the largest mosque in Delhi. Getting there was an adventure in itself. To all those in Victoria who complain about the Colwood Crawl, MacKenzie Mess and 5 o'clock rush hour, think again. The traffic jam through narrow lanes was incredible. We finally got out and followed our guide on foot leaving the driver to make his way through. The mosque is huge and again as masterpiece of architecture and carving. We had to leave our shoes outside and Damon was required to wear a sarong as his shorts were inappropriate. Leaving the mosque was yet another traffic jam through many more narrow streets with every market imaginable [fish, chicken, Diwali wares, car parts]. Amazing! We then went to Gandhi's cremation site and memorial. As we got out of the van Damon heard the plaintive sound of a snake charmer's flute. Sure enough, there he was just waiting for us to take pictures and pay, of course. Damon survived the trauma of the cobra. Gandhi's site was reverent and peaceful - a unique and very moving experience for all of us. We returned to our hotel for what is now mid-day beer break. In the afternoon we hired a cab to take us to Connaught Place to browse, shop and look for a dinner restaurant in daylight. Back to the hotel for cocktails and then to hire a 3 wheeler to go back to the restaurant. It was a fabulous Indian meal and then a scary, hair raising 3 wheeler ride back to the hotel. Forgot to mention the beggars at night are more aggressive - Damon calls them scary men. We also saw our first rats - hmmm. It was quite a day and now we're off for a tour of New Delhi! I'll keep in touch

2nd Day in INDIA

We're about to begin our 2nd day in India after an amazing buffet breakfast at our hotel, The Connaught. Yesterday was so much fun, starting off with us hiring 2 three wheeler vehicles which took us for a one hour ride through Delhi's busy streets. What a thrill and a scare - horns beeping constantly, cars going in every direction, scooters darting in and out, people dashing across streets and the mayhem was glorious. Although our mission was to get beer and water our drivers first dropped us off at several shops hoping we would buy. They get a commission. We resisted and bought only water & beer [Kingfisher & very good]. After a mid-morning beer break at the hotel we set off on foot to experience the Delhi bazaars. Fascinating and mind boggling to say the least. We found a maze of shops [800] underground where Damon bought shoes, Nicole bought a purse and Rupee bought slippers. I resisted. Damon learned how to swear in Hindi to ward off a persistent beggar. Rupee got scammed into getting his shoes cleaned. It was an adventure more interesting than the bazaars of Mexico. Last night we wandered off to find a restaurant following the terrible directions given to us by the hotel. The traffic was a nightmare, the streets it only by car headlights and people everywhere. We never did find the restaurant but ended up at TGIF - for good old American food. So today we're off on a tour of Old Delhi. Stayed tuned

We have arrived in India!

Well, the trip of a lifetime has started. We're all safe and sound in New Delhi. It is, as Rupee said, a cacophony that assaults the senses. We just had a great breakfast and now we're off to explore.

Our India Itinerary

The tour of India is confirmed. Here are the details:

Oct. 18 - Damon & Nicole fly from Vancouver to Seoul, @ 2:00pm, They will spend 5 days with their Australian friends, Jeanette, Guy & Oliver.

Oct. 23 - Corol & Rupee fly from Vancouver [2:00pm] to New Delhi with brief stops in Seoul & Singapore.

Oct. 24 - Damon & Nicole leave Seoul bound for New Delhi with arrival about 10pm. They will be met and transferred to the Connaught Hotel.

Oct. 25 - Rupee & Corol arrive in New Delhi 6 hours after D&N for an early morning transfer to the Connaught. The day will be free for us to adjust to the culture shock and time difference.

Oc.t 26 - A tour of New Delhi with the evening free to explore.

Oct. 27 - A tour of Old Delhi starting at the Red Fort and ending with bazaar shopping at the famous Chandni Chawlk.

Oct. 28 - Drive to Sikandra and visit Akbar's mausoleum before proceeding to Agra for a tour of the Taj Mahal. Our overnight stay in Agra will be at the Jaypee Palace Hotel. This is the first day of the 5 day Diwali celebration [Hindu festival of lights]. I'm sure it will be exciting.

Oct. 29 - Our tour takes us to Fatehpur Sikri, an abandoned, perfectly preserved city in the desert [1640 era]. From there we travel to the pink capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur. Here we spend 2 nights at the Trident Hilton.

Oct. 30 - To celebrate my birthday we will tour the city of Jaipur and ride an elephant on our visit to the Amber Palace. This evening we will enjoy dinner with a traditional folk dancing show and a cultural exploration of the Jaipur bazaars.

Oct. 31 - We fly from Jaipur to Delhi and Delhi to Varanasi, the holy city of the Hindu faith located on the Ganges River. Three nights will be spent adjacent to the river at the Rashmi Guest House.

Nov. 1-The morning will see us rising very early for a sunrise cruise on the River Ganges. After that we will visit several of the city's famous temples, the university and some of the houses where silk sarees are woven.

Nov. 2 - This is the last day of the Diwali Festival. We travel to Sarnath where Buddha gave his first sermon. We will also enjoy the experience of some local culture and customs.

Nov. 3 - Our flight back to Delhi arrives mid-day. We stay at the Connaught again for 2 nights and will explore Delhi on our own.

Nov. 4 - A day of leisure, perhaps some shopping, maybe a cricket match or some Indian entertainment.

Nov. 5 - We take the train to Jalundhar [Rupee's birth city]. Here we spend 5 nights at the Maya Palace. In Jalundhar we will make arrangements to visit the villages of Rupee's parents, the house built by his grandfather in the 1930's, the Pallan Cloth House, Rupee's Uncle Amar Singh Birk and his family. We will also hire a car and driver to take us to Amritsar, the site of the famous Sikh Golden Temple and the 'Well' known for the terrible massacre of Indians by the British.

Nov. 10 - Today we travel by car to the capital city of the Punjab, Chandigarh, where we will spend 2 nights at the Shivalik View Hotel. We plan to explore this modern city nestled in view of the Himalayan Mountains.

Nov. 12 - The train will return us late in the evening to New Delhi and the Connaught Hotel for 2 nights. We should be Delhi experts by now - maybe even ride the subway.

Nov.13 - A day of leisure-not sure what we'll do.

Nov. 14 - We leave India at 11:15pm on Singapore Airlines for the very long flight back to Vancouver.

Nov. 15 - Arrival in Vancouver is scheduled for 11:05am. We will catch the first available ferry and land back in Victoria in the late afternoon.

Pallan House in India

Rupee last visited India 28 years ago. One of the highlights was visiting the house he lived in as a young child. His grandfather built it in his Punjab village in the 1930s using money he had earned as a pioneer immigrant in Canada. At the time of building it was considered a mansion in Jalundhar . We plan to revisit this home - in the meantime here is a photo Rupee took of the doorway in 1980.

My First Post on Travel Time

In 40 days Rupee & I fly to India. I hope to be able to use this blog to keep our family & friends informed about this exciting journey. Our itinerary is almost complete - posting of it will happen once the details are confirmed.